American

After the beef finishes cooking, let it stand at room temperature for at least 10 minutes before carving. Keep in mind it will continue to cook after it has been removed from the oven.

You can use six 2-cup gratin dishes to make individual servings. The baking time will be a bit shorter; cook until bubbling and golden.

The spice rub can be stored in an airtight plastic container for up to 1 month.

Top-split buns are the time-honored choice for lobster rolls, but side-split buns can be used instead. Some people like only mayonnaise or melted butter on their lobster meat, but we love the added flavor that fresh herbs provide.

The ingredients can be prepared the day before and refrigerated.

To reduce the fat, we eliminated the cheese and toasted the corn tortillas in the oven rather than frying them in oil.

If you can find it, use Zephyr squash, which is yellow with a pale-green tip. You can also use a mix of young green and yellow squashes.

This recipe will serve four as a first course or light lunch. To serve the noodles as a meal, add a few cups of diced firm tofu or cooked chicken breast to the simmering broth in step 3.

The stock must be refrigerated at least 6 hours; make it 1 day ahead.

Steps 1 and 2 can be done up to 1 day ahead; refrigerate until ready to serve.