South American

Chicama is one of Manhattan's hottest Nuevo Latino restaurants. Chef Douglas Rodriguez — a pioneer of this style of cooking — oversees the open kitchen with its Ecuadoran eucalyptus-wood-burning oven and rotisserie. Rodriguez turns out dishes like adobo-rubbed Argentine rib-eye steak and black paella, which gets its unique color and taste from squid ink; there is also a large, innovative ceviche bar. To wash it all down, diners choose from the wines of Chile, Argentina and Spain — or from cocktails like the restaurant's namesake Chicama Colada.

Now considered the national drink of Brazil, the Caipirinha was not always so respectable. In fact, the name comes from a somewhat derogatory word roughly equivalent to "hillbilly." The cocktail's main ingredient, cachaça, is an aguardiente that, like rum, is made from sugarcane. But cachaça has a bite and flavor more characteristic of a rough-edged tequila than of its more refined cousin. In fact, bartenders who run out of cachaça have been known to substitute equal parts white rum and white tequila in its place.A Caipirinha is usually made by muddling pieces of lime with sugar; we chose, for simplicity's sake, to juice the limes instead. For a more authentic flavor, you can mash a piece of lime rind in the bottom of the glass before serving.

Last year, while traveling near the Amazon in Peru, I stayed at a delightful river camp north of Iquitos. Wanting a drink somewhat drier than a Pisco Sour, I created  — with the assistance of the bartender  — the "Anaconda." It is simple but proved most refreshing after my daily jungle treks.

Moqueca de camarão Dendê (palm) oil brings to the cooking of coastal Brazil what drums bring to samba: an insistent underlying sensuality. It transforms the coconut milk with its deep orange-red color and makes the flavor of the shrimp sing. But it is as perishable as it is seductive, so smell it before you use it. Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 45 min

Add corn biscuits (you can find them in the supermarket refrigerator case) and a romaine, arugula, and radicchio salad with goat cheese. Coffee ice cream drizzled with Kahlúa is a nice dessert.

Adobo means spice rub or marinade, and this particular recipe was introduced by African slaves and brought to Bahía in Brazil in the 17th century. I think that it gives tuna a new and exciting dimension. There is spiciness in the dish, as would be expected from an adobo. To provide the American palate a little relief from the heat, the tuna is served on a bed of lightly pickled cucumbers.

This Colombian-style one-dish meal is perfect for a cool winter evening.

At La Porteña, an Argentine restaurant in Jackson Heights, New York, spicy chorizo sausage is used to give this frittata-style omelet its heat. If you can't find chorizo, hot Italian sausage makes a nice substitute.

"I've always taken a scientific, as well as an artistic, approach to food," writes Mark Van Wye of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. "My family dined out a lot when I was young, and I became an adventurous eater. I would try anything and everything, and eventually I'd attempt to re-create those restaurant dishes at home. I never asked for recipes; I liked the detective work and the sense of discovery as I experimented with ingredients, just as a novice painter learns by copying the masters." Look for green peppercorns where capers and pickles are sold in the supermarket. (They're also good in salad dressings.)

These Colombian corn pancakes do a good job of soaking up the juices from the pork.

In her cookbook Fiesta!, Anya von Bremzen included a recipe by the Jackson Heights (Queens, New York) "arepa lady," known simply as Piedad. Though arepas are a common South American breakfast item (as well as a lunch and dinner starch), what makes hers so special is the luxurious inclusion of butter in the dough and the use of milk instead of water. We've adapted the recipe slightly.

This South American version of beef steak is wonderfully good eating.

Aji amarillo is a Peruvian chile. This salsa uses a jarred paste made from these flavorful and fiery bright yellow peppers. This recipe is an accompaniment for Pork Tenderloin Churrasco .

When buying the dried chile for this recipe, be aware that a pasilla de Oaxaca is not the same as a regular pasilla chile. The former is smoked and has a very distinct flavor.

Causa Limena Editor's Note: This recipe and introductory text are excerpted from The Exotic Kitchens of Peru, by Copeland Marks. We've also added some tips of our own below. For a complete guide to Peruvian cuisine, click here. This appetizer, a popular national dish, is from Lima, the capital city of Peru, which has metropolitan and modern ideas. The dictionary does not reveal how the word "causa” came to be applied to a concoction, albeit a delicious one, that features cold mashed potatoes. A causa is considered a light lunch or snack, a most appealing dish that is often served at weddings or other celebrations.