Eggplant

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(Thai Eggplant Salad) Thai dishes known as yams are often translated into English as "salads", perhaps for lack of a better word. Like salads, yams are often served at room temperature and include fresh herbs and raw vegetables. Unlike salads, however, which Westerners often eat to refresh their palates, yams are anything but shy in flavor. In Thailand they are often served when people get together for a glass of beer and want something to nibble on. In this yam, Asian eggplants - long and narrow and ranging from deep purple to pale violet - are broiled and tossed with shallots, Vietnamese coriander, and a dressing that is at once salty, sour, spicy, and slightly sweet. After you have made the salad once, you may want to experiment with the balance of seasonings, perhaps increasing the chili heat. Vietnamese coriander is known in Vietnam as rau ram and in Thailand as pak chi wietnam. It is usually sold in open bunches or in cellophane and can be found at Vietnamese and Thai markets.

Majorcans love to talk about the quality of their vegetables, and this dish of sautéd eggplant, potatoes and bell peppers in fresh tomato sauce, called tumbet, is one of their favorite creations. We suggest serving it with grilled fish or lamb chops, as Majorcans do.

This frittata-like preparation, called maakouda, can be made with meat, chicken, fish or vegetables. Served hot or cold, it is a standard Tunisian hors d'oeuvre, but is also great for brunch, lunch or supper. The eggplant is broiled, not fried, so it does not absorb a lot of oil.

A few years back, I renewed my romance with Galatoire's restaurant. The reacquaintance was arranged by my friend Kerry Moody, who is one of New Orleans's black Creoles. A frequent visitor to the restaurant, he led me through the menu and introduced me to such off-the-menu delights as fried eggplant lightly dusted with confectioners' sugar. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I've returned to Galatoire's many times since. Now when I arrive at the restaurant, I feel like a regular when my waiter, Imre, remembers me after any length of absence and brings the eggplant to the table unasked. The combination of eggplant and sugar sounds strange, but the dish is delicious, a perfect beginning to a Creole feast and a subtle reminder of the African traditions of New Orleans cooking. The eggplant on which the dish is based may have originated in Africa, and the frying in deep oil is one of the major African culinary methods brought to this country by slave cooks.

In this recipe we call for a 3- by 1 1/2-inch stainless-steel pastry ring. It is available at some specialty cookware shops.

Skordalia is a garlicky Greek dip made with mashed or pureed potatoes.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 2 hr

This is enough sauce for two pounds of pasta; it's good with fusilli, orecchiette or linguine.

This recipe is from Andalusia in the south. The North African touches of honey and mint come by way of the Moors, who ruled the region for centuries.

Serve these eggplant slices on crusty Italian bread spread with a mild, earthy cheese such as a fresh goat cheese. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 8 3/4 hr (includes marinating)

This version of a tagine, the classic Moroccan stew, calls for dark meat because it stays moist when braised. If you prefer white meat, reduce the cooking time by 15 minutes.