Ground Beef

Now and again all a recipe requires to embitter a child is one fatal ingredient. My siblings tell me that they recall Hamburger Pie as a kid-friendly favorite. I dreaded it. Spying its mashed-potato crust through the oven window, I always groaned. Today my stomach still sinks with recollection, and here's why: sliced green beans from a can. Yes, they're fast, but can anyone defend the taste, texture, or color of canned green beans? My sister has tried to gussy up this dish, and I'm sure you can find many hoity-toity versions (usually called Shepherd's Pie). But here, taken from the brittle pages of her kitchen scrapbook, is the very recipe my mom prepared for her ungrateful son. Everything in it could be found in our house on any day. Mothers take note: This recipe would allow fresh green beans, cooked. Unless, of course, your little epicure insists on canned!

A typical chili of the depression years consisted of cheap meat stretched by even cheaper beans. Chili remained modestly popular even when the hard times waned, until Lyndon Johnson boosted its national profile during the 1960s. Now chili is back and bigger than ever. Even with the modern addition of smoked jalapeños (chipotles), the inclusion of black beans and beer, and a stylish drizzle of lime crema, this recipe is a classic-hot, hearty and filling.

Many years ago there was a health food restaurant on Hollywood's famed Sunset Strip named The Aware Inn. It was the first to make hamburgers, called "Swingers," stuffed with a mix of onions, tomatoes, and green peppers — almost a salsa except it was sandwiched between the meat. They tasted so good, we have been preparing hamburgers this way ever since.

Using meat loaf mix — a combination of ground beef, veal, and pork — ensures a juicy result. While the meat loaf cooks, mash some potatoes and boil some green beans. Warm apple pie from the bakery is a perfect finale.

There are several varieties of mustard cabbage; for this recipe we used wrapped-heart mustard cabbage, also called swatow or dai gai choy. Sharp and pungent when raw, mustard cabbage sweetens and mellows with wilting and slow cooking. Try serving this dish with mashed potatoes, which go very well with the gravylike tomato sauce the stuffed cabbage is cooked in.

Here's a chunky, hearty beef stew that's just right on a cold winter day.

A favorite of my mom's and a bit of an ethnic twist! It tastes best if freshly made. Direction #5 is very important, otherwise the triangles will look pale and sickly. Also, don't roll the sheets. The puffs will not be as flaky.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

I love cheeseburgers, but I think that I like this meatloaf even better, especially when served with sesame-seed rolls and french fries.

Frances Driesbach, Maui, Hawaii
"This chili was inspired by Southern Calif., where I grew up. Red, green, and yellow peppers represent the Mexican fiesta."

Ground turkey would make a fine substitute for beef in these Southwest-style burgers (grill until cooked through).