Rosemary

(Cacciucco) This seafood soup, called cacciucco (meaning "mixture"), is a specialty of Livorno, a fishing port that is Tuscany's second-largest city. It has been made for hundreds of years, and variations of it appear all along the Tuscan coast. Traditionally, at least five types of fish and shellfish are included (one for each "c" in the name). If you like, do as the Italians do, and place a slice of toasted bread in each bowl before ladling the soup over.

Crown roasts are often done with pork, but lamb also makes for a festive presentation—and it's a delicious change of pace. Request the roasts from the butcher ahead of time, since they are usually prepared to order. Pour a Syrah with dinner if you've chosen this main course.

When the weather turns chilly, a dinner of perfectly cooked duck, with crispy skin, rosy succulent meat, and a balanced fruity sauce, is something to dream about. This duck dish delivers all these things. It calls for whole ducks which can be found fresh or frozen in most supermarkets for a price per pound not much more than chicken. The breast and leg meat are removed from the carcass and marinated. The carcass is made into stock, strained, and boiled down into a rich sauce. When it's time to cook the duck, the legs are baked in the oven until fully cooked, tender, and crispy, and the breasts are sautéed on top of the stove until the skin crisps but the meat is still rosy. If you are not confident cutting up the duck yourself, buy a fresh duck from a butcher, who will cut it for you. Don't let the many steps scare you off. The result is well worth it, and you can do much of the work the day ahead. The day before, or the morning of serving day: Cut up the duck and marinate it; make the duck stock (3 hours); and strain the stock and boil it down to make the sauce (1 hour). **20 minutes before serving:**Begin cooking the duck breasts. 45 minutes before serving: Begin cooking the duck legs; reheat the sauce. 5 minutes before serving: Allow the duck to rest, then slice and serve.

Here's a special-occasion roast enhanced with classic Provençal seasonings. Roasting two large ends of tenderloin instead of one whole piece ensures even cooking. (The meat needs to be coated with its aromatic rub, then chilled for at least six hours before roasting.) Serve this elegant dish with <epi:recielink id="2999">Scalloped Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Herbes de Provence</epi:recielink> and a sauté of green beans, zucchini and red bell pepper. Uncork a sophisticated Rhône red such as Hermitage or Crozes-Hermitage.

The Potato Gratin with Cream and Fresh Herbs is a nice accompaniment to this main course. And for the wine, consider serving a flavorful red, such as a Pinot Noir from Oregon.

Yams are blended with regular russets in a nice rendition of mashed potatoes. If you decide to double the recipe, use a 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish.

Be sure to bake these breadsticks until they are very crisp.

Have more French bread on hand to serve with this colorful main course. A dry white wine is a good match.

An herb crust and special Zinfandel sauce give new meaning to the word flavorful. What to drink: A full-bodied, tannin-rich Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Pissaladière is a classic dish in Provence. Its thin pizza-like crust is piled high with caramelized onions, then topped with anchovies, olives, and fresh herbs.

Mark Taylor of West Hartford, Connecticut, writes: "I started cooking out of necessity when I first graduated from college, since I couldn't afford to eat out. Having grown up watching my mother cook for our large family, I used her recipes. She was always trying new dishes whenever we had guests and sharing her adventurous attitude toward eating. These days, even though my wife and I both work, we still cook several times a week. Now I tend to rely on recipes I've picked up from restaurants and friends. I enjoy experimenting with different ingredients and figuring out new ways to improve a recipe, as I've done with the one here."

Start with chopped fresh tomatoes, basil and garlic spooned onto toasted baguette slices. Grill slices of potato to have with the tuna; follow with biscotti and fresh figs.

If you've got a rosemary bush in your garden, now's the time to use it to make skewers. Or, to keep things simple, just use bamboo skewers (you'll need 60)—the kebabs will still look great.

Any leftovers are great added to the Tuscan Rice Salad or for sandwiches.

Offer some homemade breadsticks with the lamb: Just cut a French bread baguette lengthwise into quarters; brush with olive oil that has been mixed with fresh herbs. Grill alongside the lamb until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Serve raspberries and cream with cookies for dessert.

Turkey may not have played as big a part in the first Thanksgiving, held back in 1621, as it does in our contemporary celebration. If turkey was served at all, it was probably one of many game birds, that were served along with venison, oysters, clams, lobsters, and eels, as well as succotash, beach plums, sweet potatoes, leeks and cornbread. My own Thanksgiving menu is intended to pay homage to the foods of the first Thanksgiving , as well as to the foods that have become associated with this holiday. I believe that holidays by their own nature demand that traditional foods be served. In America, there is no stronger correlation between the food and the day than that of the venerable Thanksgiving Day turkey.