Salmon

We never went hungry as kids. And we have no inherent fear of the next Great Depression or anxiety about canned food. Still, we always want more. Wanting and eating four of the Swedish shrimp-egg things you can buy in the restaurant at IKEA is a good example of that. Another good example is how we would have piled more stuff on this modest toast if we could have fit it: a can of sardines from Bretagne, maybe, or quails stuffed with crab hiding in the corner. Our first reaction on seeing this photo was, “Shit, we forgot clams.” There are thirty items here, and if we do another book, we will put in sixty, we promise (just so we don’t run out of food). Disclaimer: In no way do we aspire or pretend to serve authentic Scandinavian food. This is just our view projected onto a classic. The closest we have been to Scandinavia is Fred Heimlich-maneuvering a Dane who choked on the biggest oyster ever eaten raw. And it was a weird experience because it was like they kissed; they were shy around each other for the rest of the evening. In the list that follows, an asterisk means a recipe is included. If there’s no *, it means the item is straightforward and you can figure it out. We suggest serving the items on rye bread or a baguette sliced lengthwise and buttered. You then eat your open-faced sandwich with a fork and knife. Or, you can do as we do: add condiments and eat it like a military strategist, portioning, placing, moving, and rationing. Regarding yields: the smorgasbord is more of a concept than a straightforward recipe. The smorgasbord shown here serves 4 to 6, and includes every single thing listed. You don’t have to follow our lead (though we would be pleased). Typically we put 4 or 5 proteins and 4 or 5 condiments on the average smorgasbord. Following this rule, each of the small recipes serves four.

George Pullman was a fervent industrialist and a train man. He created the sleeping car, the hotel car, and eventually the dining car. Some say the Pullman sandwich loaf was designed after his cars. Others say it was designed to fit into the cube-shaped train shelves. Either way, this is an easy dish we would love to eat for breakfast—on the train, of course. This recipe makes one serving; use up the rest of the Pullman loaf making more boxes.

The Irish are famous for their smoked salmon, so it's a natural for a St. Patrick's Day party. Of course, you don't have to use Irish smoked salmon for these toasts; any cold–smoked salmon will work well, but if you're feeling flush, you will be treating yourself to salmon that is super–silky in texture with a distinct smokiness that comes from spending time near smoldering hardwoods such as oak and beechwood. If topping your salmon with anything other than a gentle squeeze of lemon seems like heresy, don't knock our tangy–sweet malt vinegar syrup until you've tried it. You just might get hooked.

This dish is one of the first things I make once the Pacific salmon season has opened. It is the first sign that summer is near. Later in the summer, I make a similar dish with corn, zucchini, and tomatoes with fresh basil. Any combo of fresh, perfectly sweet, just-picked veggies will be a great complement to the fish. It’s especially important to buy wild salmon—even self-proclaimed “sustainable” salmon farms are dangerous because of the parasitic lice that thrive on farmed salmon; when the infested fish escape (a frequent occurrence), the lice threaten the wild salmon population. If wild salmon isn’t in season, use any sustainable fillet or steak that is of similar thickness. If available, use 1/4 cup chopped green garlic instead of the garlic cloves. And if you can find them, rainbow carrots are beautiful here.

From chef Greg Higgins, a 2000 Workshop participant, comes this idea of pairing salmon with cucumbers, saffron, tarragon, and a creamy white-wine reduction. No surprise that a chef from the Pacific Northwest would know what flavors are sublime with salmon.

Although we grill a lot of salmon at Cakebread Cellars, we have also come to love the creamy texture of salmon roasted slowly in a low oven. This gentle cooking method seems to accentuate salmon’s richness and to yield a notably buttery result. Fish on the grill can overcook quickly, but the oven technique is much more forgiving. Accompany with Braised Radishes and Sugar Snap Peas (page 154).

Two types of fish—flaky salmon and meaty swordfish—produce doubly delicious grilled kebabs. Thread the fish with the grain perpendicular to the skewers. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water at least fifteen minutes to prevent them from scorching.

To keep the salmon pieces moist as they roast, they are gently pressed together in the pan. A rustic potato-and-artichoke hash is cooked alongside. Slice the potatoes on a mandoline or with a very sharp knife to make thin, uniform pieces.

Uncooked salmon patties can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped in plastic, up to one day. Or wrap individually and freeze up to two months in a resealable plastic bag (thaw in refrigerator before cooking). Serve with the mayonnaise and noodles below, or mixed greens.

In this richly flavored dish, the salmon and cabbage are cooked in rendered bacon fat; for a vegetarian variation, omit step 1 and start by heating two tablespoons olive oil in the skillet.

The salmon and green beans are equally good served warm or cold. If chilling, prepare recipe through step 3; refrigerate fish, green beans, and dressing separately, then proceed with step 4 just before serving.

SMOKED, POACHED, GRILLED, OR SAUTÉED, salmon is what’s for dinner in the Northwest. Its rich flavor is even better when paired with a butter rub. If you prepare this dish in advance, bring the salmon to nearly room temperature before you cook it. Using a thicker piece of salmon will give you better cuts. Otherwise, if the butter rub is too cold, it will flake off the salmon. The sweet blueberry sauce provides an unexpected color and flavor contrast to the rub.

THIS IS A NORTHWEST TAKE ON THE CLASSIC SURF AND TURF, but instead of steak I like to include another fish. Halibut and salmon make a great combination because they have complementary flavors, cooking times, and thickness. (If you can get Alaskan halibut, even better.) Grilled on a cedar plank and served with fresh pesto, the fish have flavors that really pop. You can use any untreated cedar board to cook the fish. Cookware stores sell rather thick planks, but some big box hardware stores and large grocery stores sell thinner untreated cedar planks in the barbecue department.

WHILE THE NAME MAY SOUND FANCY, this is really a very simple dish, a sashimi salad brightened with freshly squeezed lime juice. Inspired by the Hawaiian fish dish, the addition of avocado acts as a color and texture counterpoint. The salmon should be frozen for at least 24 hours to kill any parasites that might be in the fish; it’s also much easier to cut the fish while it’s still partially frozen.

FLAVOR BOOSTER Salmon fillets are dressed with a sweet-and-sour glaze that combines dark-brown sugar with pungent whole-grain mustard. Arrange the fish on a platter with watercress and lemon wedges for an impressive presentation fit for a dinner party.

WHY IT’S LIGHT The salmon and green beans—along with capers and strips of lemon zest—are steamed in parchment (see page 18), with only one teaspoon olive oil per packet.

GOOD TO KNOW Poached salmon fillets are ultramoist. But there’s just one hard-and-fast rule to follow when preparing them: Do not overcook. Poach the fish ever so gently just until the center remains slightly translucent.

GOOD TO KNOW To impart more flavor and moistness, cook the salmon fillets with the skin intact. The skin will cook to a delightful crisp, but you can remove it before serving if desired.