Seafood

The spice rub can be stored in an airtight plastic container for up to 1 month.

Top-split buns are the time-honored choice for lobster rolls, but side-split buns can be used instead. Some people like only mayonnaise or melted butter on their lobster meat, but we love the added flavor that fresh herbs provide.

Remade as a club, the lobster roll trades its usual bun for brioche and takes on the customary bacon, lettuce, and tomato.

We serve this salad on whole-grain toast as an open-face sandwich, but it is also delicious mounded on a bed of crisp salad greens.

Although fresh mackerel can be hard to find, smoked mackerel is often sold in the refrigerated section of supermarkets; it is also available from mail-order sources. We used the peppered variety, but any type will do.

Rock shrimp are small and a bit sweet. You can also use small regular shrimp.

You can use tarragon in place of chervil.

We recommend serving this juicy salad as a first course, either alone or accompanied by mixed greens. We used beefsteak tomatoes, but any fresh, ripe tomatoes would be equally delicious.

Soaking the anchovies in red-wine vinegar gives them a wonderful pickled flavor.

The scallops and vegetables can be poached and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead. Avoid using an oaky Chardonnay, which may add bitterness.