Tarragon

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This sauce is really just another variant of Hollandaise, but it is sufficiently famous to be dignified with a separate heading. The sauce calls classically, for a variety of fresh herbs which may be difficult to obtain. Adequate substitutes and dried herbs solve the problem. The only real problem is tarragon. Do not use dried tarragon. If you cannot obtain fresh tarragon, use tarragon packed in vinegar.

The mild flavor of leeks adds a nice touch to the pasta's tomato-based sauce.

This salad was inspired by a classic Salade Niçoise with its fresh anchovies, potatoes and green beans, and one offered to me by Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse, who comes to France every year to avail herself of, among other things, the fine green beans of summer.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Traditional New England side dishes like boiled potatoes, corn on the cob and coleslaw are just right with this festive dish. If it's more convenient, thaw two frozen uncooked lobster tails (skip the parboiling). The Goober Ice Cream Sandwiches are perfect to wrap it up.

Here's an easy-to-make sauce for shrimp or crab claws. It's also good prepared with fresh dill or thyme instead of tarragon. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less, but requires additional unattended time.

Serve this elegant first course with Champagne or sparkling wine. The recipe makes a few extra pancakes for those who want seconds.

Rather than making herbs part of a green salad, why not make these fresh, flavorful greens the salad. The idea comes from Paris chef Alain Passard, who years ago served me an all-tarragon salad at his Left Bank restaurant, Arpège. When tarragon is fresh in the market or your garden overflows with this extraordinarily powerful herb, why not serve it with honor as a salad on its own? Years later Passard expanded what I call "the tarragon tangle" to a full-scale mixed herb salad—just a few well-dressed bites on a small salad plate—as an accompaniment. The idea really is to mix and match judiciously. Just don't use so many herbs that they lose their personality. Good combinations include parsley, mint, and tarragon. Or consider an all-mint salad to accompany grilled lamb, an all-tarragon salad to accompany grilled chicken, a sage-heavy salad to accompany roast pork. Other herbs that can be added to the following salad mix include a very judicious addition of hyssop, sage, chervil, and marjoram. Just be sure to include leaves only—no cheating—leaving all stems behind!

The artichoke puree has a nice tarragon flavor that is a lovely complement to the beef. Use the remaining puree as a dip for crudités or pita bread.

(Braised Chicken with Vinegar and Tarragon)

Surround the dip with carrots sticks, cauliflower, fennel, yellow squash and zucchini slices for a colorful presentation. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Open a bottle of fruity Chardonnay to serve with this enlightened take on a classic.

Called "French pasta" at the restaurant, this Provençal-style special (using no butter and a minimum of oil) is typical of Méteigner's light French fare.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires additional unattended time. Makes use of the microwave oven.