Vanilla

Rugelach are classic cookies in the Jewish culinary repertoire. The surprise ingredient in this version--cottage cheese--makes for tender, rich cookies.

Homemade malted vanilla-bean ice cream is layered with a bittersweet chocolate sauce and drunken dried cherries.

Refrigerate these silky puddings for at least six hours and up to one day before serving.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Makes use of the microwave oven.

The recipe below was based on the apricot soufflés served by Sally Darr at her former New York City restaurant, La Tulipe. This recipe calls for five large egg whites. When separating your eggs, serve the yolks for the accompanying crème anglaise.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 3 1/4 hr

A homemade version of vanilla extract.

This lovely finale is from Dwayne Fortier of La Reserve in Houston. Begin preparing it well before serving, as the mousse needs to freeze for at least six hours.

The thing Hom likes most about this dessert is the contrast of the warm, sweet fruit and the cold, tangy crème fraîche. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 20 min

This recipe yields more than is needed for the Parisienne apples. Use the remainder on pancakes or waffles, or as a flavorful boost for hot cereal. Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 10 min

No custard stands in the way of the peach flavor in this simple-to-make ice cream, so only the sweetest fresh peaches will do.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Crema Pasticciera I Campanians are wild for pastry cream. Thickened with flour, rich with eggs, flavored with vanilla, lemon, chocolate, or coffee, it fills cream puffs, sponge cakes, and ladyfingers in all the composed desserts called delizie (delights), and the grandest of all, Zuppa Inglese. It goes under fruits and fruit preserves in tarts, which are called either crostate or pizze. It forms a topknot in the hole of the famous fried Zeppole di Guiseppe, the bignè — or French crullers, you might call them — made in honor of St. Joseph on March 19. Pastry cream is also one of the bases for frozen desserts. It can be lightened with whipped cream, thinned with loquid cream. It also makes a fine sauce, the same as the French crè anglaise. This recipe requires total concentration and a quick eye and hand. The eggs must be heated just to the point that they do their maximum thickening and never so much that they scramble. The starch must be kept in constant motion, too; otherwise it will lump. I find that even with the best technique it is always prudent to be prepared with a strainer placed over a bowl. No matter how careful you are, there are frequently at least a few lumps that need to be smoothed out.

We garnished this cake with Vanda orchids, an edible flower often used to decorate drinks in Hawaii.

Vermont's maple sugaring season is in early spring, and Vermont Grade B maple syrup-which has a more pronounced flavor than Grade A-is available by mail order in quart-size containers from Highland Sugarworks, Websterville, VT, tel. (800) 452-4012.

Considered a luxury in the nineteenth century, this ice cream has flourished in the past decade and has become a modern classic in Irish restaurants. But it is easy to prepare at home, too, because the recipe does not require an ice cream maker. In this version of the ice cream, the breadcrumbs are turned into a praline.

You'll find all the flavors of a traditional Linzertorte — a hazelnut, spice and raspberry jam tart — in this delicious cake. The top is covered with a piped frosting that imitates the lattice crust of the classic dessert. One ingredient that is a definite departure from the original is the Chinese five-spice powder; it adds a lovely nuance.

A Greek man answered an ad we ran in The New York Times for a baker. He said he baked Lindy's cheesecakes. "You get me the ingredients I want—pure cream cheese, eggs, and heavy cream and I'll make you Lindy's cheesecake." He was a gem. He baked Lindy's cheesecake for our restaurant. Miriam Perlof, founder, the Country Club Restaurant and Pastry Diner, Philadelphia