Veal

In this elegant entrée, the leeks mellow to lend a bit of sweetness to the sauce.

This hearty winter entrée can be prepared several days ahead. Veal brisket is the boned veal breast. If you don't have a roasting pan large enough to hold both briskets, divide the ingredients in half and bake in two pans. If the veal is difficult to find, substitute one 5-pound flat-cut beef brisket and roast until tender, about 3 1/2 hours. Leftovers freeze well and make great sandwiches.

Veal chops from a butcher are usually about 1 1/4 inches thick and weigh 12 to 14 ounces each. The supermarket variety of chop is thinner and smaller, ranging from 8 to 10 ounces each, and would only need to be roasted 12 to 15 minutes in this recipe.

If you choose to omit the sweetbreads, simply begin the recipe by sautéing the pancetta. (In that case, you may also want to purchase a larger veal or pork loin — going up to a 5-pound veal loin or a 6-pound pork loin.)

Ask your butcher to make a "pocket" in the veal breast for you.

From being a regional dish from Piedmont in Italy, osso buco has caught the imagination worldwide. Thick slices from the veal shank with its central marrow bone are key to osso buco, so that the meat remains moist and becomes tender enough to fall from the bone. When the dish is cooked ahead, the flavor will deepen and mellow. As for the curious gremolata flavoring of garlic, parsley, and lemon, I myself like to add a generous sprinkling to my veal at the table, although purists use only just enough for a delicate nuance. Risotto milanese, flavored with veal stock and saffron is the classic accompaniment. Wine for Cooking Gavi di Gavi (sometimes labeled as cortese di Gavi) is Piedmont's best-known white wine. Gavi is no longer inexpensive, however, and oyu might do just as well with an Italian chardonnay, which is rapidly supplanting cortese as the most widely planted white grape in Piedmont. Wine to Drink When osso buco reaches the table, an authoritative red from Piedmont is in order — a mature barolo or barbaresco, whose bouquet and will match the complexity of this Italian classic.

The eclectic menu at Razz's Restaurant & Bar in Scottsdale, Arizona, takes its cues from around the world. This curried veal dish is representative of chef-owner Erasmo "Razz" Kamnitzers talents. Razz is fond od of grains, so rice pilaf is appropriate here, along with steamed green and yellow zucchini. Vanilla puddings sprinkled with pistachios and raspberries would make a nice finish to this exotic menu. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The roast is cooked along with beef short ribs, ham hocks and sausage for a hearty meal. Offer with polenta, mashed potatoes or the Roasted Root Vegetables with Green Onions . Begin the veal the day before cooking to allow the garlic-herb rub to flavor the meat.

As Gourmet wrote in 1959: "Long ago...it did occur to some blithe spirit, a poet of the kitchen to be sure, that when these little veal rolls were arranged on a platter they looked like a flock of headless birds. And oiseaux sans têtes, or veal birds, they remain to this day in the cuisines of such diverse countries as Belgium, Italy, and France.

This hearty stew is great served over egg noodles. Bitter greens with a creamy Gorgonzola dressing would be a good side salad. Have sliced bananas and strawberries drizzled with honey and balsamic vinegar for an elegant dessert.

These rice-coated meatballs, commonly referred to as zhen zhu, meaning "pearls" in Chinese, are often prepared at home in New York City's Chinatown. Steaming them on lettuce leaves helps prevent them from sticking to the steamer rack. They are traditionally made with sticky rice (sometimes called sweet rice), but we've used long-grain rice, which is easier to find.

The classic Hungarian dish relies on sour cream both to thicken the sauce and to balance the heat of the paprika.

"When it's on the menu, I always order the sautéed veal with shrimp sauce at Kelsey's Restaurant here in New Orleans," writes Angela Stuck of Louisiana. "Can you get the recipe?"

There is probably nothing more dramatic — or better to eat — than a whole veal shank. It's a showstopper; when we bring this out from the kitchen prior to carving it tableside, every head turns, and for good reason. The succulent meat and the delicious marrow are truly impressive.

Pork tenderloin makes a delicious replacement for veal in this dish. Rice and chutney complete the meal.