Spring

This is one of my favorite ways to showcase the fresh and delicate flavors of spring: sweet peas, tender green garlic, and mint. Serve with crostini or fresh spring veggies as a dip (pictured), or spread it on sandwiches. You can also use fava beans in place of the peas, or use a combination. Truffle pecorino would also work well in this recipe.

Brian sometimes roasts mushrooms and artichokes in the winery’s pizza oven alongside a chicken, but the vegetables will color up beautifully in a hot home oven, too. Serve them, browned and sizzling, as an accompaniment to a roast or to Grilled Bone-In Ribeye Steak with Garlic Sauce (page 138). Or pair with polenta for a meatless meal.

Brian spreads a roasted-garlic paste on the dough under the mushrooms and potatoes, which gives this pizza an irresistible fragrance. If you have access to wild mushrooms, by all means use them. Bellwether Farms Crescenza cheese is a soft, supple, young cow’s milk cheese that melts well; mozzarella is stretchier, but a good substitute.

In late spring, when California asparagus are still available and the Cakebread garden is yielding the year’s first onions, Brian makes this delicate pizza bianca (a “white pizza,” or pizza without tomato sauce). The fresh-dug onions haven’t been cured yet, so they don’t have papery skins, and their flavor is mild. Many supermarkets sell “spring onions” that look like thick scallions with a bulbous root end. They would work in this recipe, as would leeks or even cured yellow onions, but uncured onions have the most delicate taste. Choose a fresh ricotta without pectin or other stabilizers. The Bellwether Farms ricotta from neighboring Sonoma County is our favorite.

Over the years, workshop chefs have devised many memorable hors d’oeuvres with chèvre because of Cakebread’s long friendship with two wine-country goat cheese producers: Laura Chenel and Skyhill. This one-bite appetizer, featuring soft herbed goat cheese spread on a potato slice with a dollop of tapenade, comes from chef Pascal Olhats, who prepared it during the 1993 Workshop. If you have a small food processor, you can halve the tapenade recipe, as you need only a small amount for this dish. Then again, tapenade keeps well in the refrigerator, and you will be happy to have some on hand. Use it as a sandwich condiment or spread for crostini, slather it on grilled tuna, or toss it with pasta.

Chef Walter Pisano, a 1999 Workshop alumnus, makes an aromatic pesto that includes neither basil nor garlic. He makes it with fresh spring herbs—parsley, chives, and mint—in place of the basil that doesn’t mature until summer. It’s lively and light, just the right complement to his feather-light gnocchi, but you could use this pesto on fresh pasta or fish as well. Chef Pisano’s gnocchi melt on the tongue when made with high-quality ricotta. At the winery, we use Bellwether Farms ricotta (see page 77), but Calabro also makes an excellent product. You may need to visit a specialty cheese shop to find fresh ricotta. Supermarket ricotta containing gums or stabilizers will not produce the most delicate gnocchi.

THIS RECIPE WAS CREATED TO GO WITH the Red, White, and Green Vegetable “Lasagne” (page 163), but it can be used just as you would any pesto—in omelets, tossed with pasta, or as a savory dip.

A great topping on fish, this fresh pesto also makes a wonderful pasta sauce or dipping sauce for bread. This recipe is a good excuse to experiment with different cheeses.

THIS IS A PASTA & CO RECIPE that’s been a customer favorite for years. Inspired by the classic Southern ingredient black-eyed peas, this healthy salad has the sharp flavor of mustard greens, while fresh tarragon adds an extra zing. For a heartier salad, add a few slices of leftover grilled, roasted, or poached chicken.

GOOD TO KNOW Cooking vegetables in parchment is a great way to highlight their flavor while preserving their nutrients (and low-calorie profiles). Group vegetables with similar cooking times so they’ll be ready at once.

GOOD TO KNOW Cooking vegetables in parchment is a great way to highlight their flavor while preserving their nutrients (and low-calorie profiles). Group vegetables with similar cooking times so they’ll be ready at once.

FLAVOR BOOSTER Salmon fillets are dressed with a sweet-and-sour glaze that combines dark-brown sugar with pungent whole-grain mustard. Arrange the fish on a platter with watercress and lemon wedges for an impressive presentation fit for a dinner party.

GOOD TO KNOW Thinly pounded chicken breasts, known as paillards in French cuisine, cook through in just a couple of minutes—perfect for a quick, low-calorie midweek dinner.

WHY IT’S LIGHT In this recipe, the steak and vegetables are cooked on the stove, with just one tablespoon of oil for the whole dish. Because flank steak is one of the leanest cuts of beef, be careful not to overcook it, and slice the meat thinly against the grain for the most tender results.

GOOD TO KNOW Often served raw in salads, peppery arugula can also be heated briefly until wilted, just like spinach. It pairs nicely not only with shrimp, as in this quick sauté, but also with chicken, steak, and sharp cheeses, such as Parmesan and Pecorino Romano.

FLAVOR BOOSTERS This one-dish meal is a great example of how the bright notes of lemon (zest and juice) and parsley can help reduce the need for unwanted fat. The recipe is very adaptable; if you have other vegetables such as fresh spinach or snap peas on hand, add them to the couscous at the end. You can also substitute the leg and thigh meat from a rotisserie chicken.