Almendrado de Pollo

Name: Almendrado de Pollo
Yield: makes 8 servings
Ingredients: 2 dried ancho or other fairly mild chiles (the dish should not be too fiery); 1/4 cup lard (preferred) or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed; 1 large white onion, chopped; 1 cup blanched almonds; Salt and black pepper to taste; 10 garlic cloves, peeled; 3 or 4 tomatoes, cored and chopped (about 3 cups); 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon; Pinch of ground cloves; 1 tablespoon red wine or other vinegar; 1 chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces, or 2 1/2 to 3 pounds chicken parts, trimmed of excess fat; Chicken stock, preferably homemade (page 160), as needed; Slivered almonds for garnish, optional

December 14, 2011

One of the classic moles of Oaxaca, now popular throughout Mexico. Though no mole is simple, this is among the easiest and most straightforward, something you can actually consider making on a weeknight (especially if you’re an experienced cook and can brown the chicken and make the sauce at the same time). To be entirely authentic—or, at least, more authentic, since true authenticity is never really possible north of the border—you should roast most of the sauce ingredients before combining them in the skillet. Toast the almonds in a dry skillet, shaking occasionally, until fragrant; heat the peeled garlic in a dry skillet until lightly browned; roast the onions and tomatoes in a hot oven until blistered; and so on, right down to toasting and grinding fresh whole spices. (In fact, old-style cooks brown unblanched almonds and then peel them.) All of this does make a difference, and if you have the time, please try it. Believe me, though, the mole will be sensational without these steps. If you’ve never cooked with lard, have no fear: It has less saturated fat than butter and is still sold in virtually every supermarket. It remains a wonderful cooking fat. Serve with rice or Arroz a la Mexicana (page 517).

Recipe notes