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Nana Browne’s Roly Polys (Apple Dumplings)

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Apple dumplings on a sheet pan covered in custard sauce.
Photo by Brittany Conerly

The elders in my family still go crazy over this apple dumpling recipe. It’s pretty touching listening to a bunch of old folks reminiscing about a dessert—which we call roly polys—that Nana made for them when they were young. This just goes to show the power of food to create lasting memories, to transport you back in time, at any age.

This was Nana’s go-to dessert to serve her kids, and they passed it down to us. Whenever one of my aunts prepared a batch of roly polys, they’d put out a family-wide call and we’d pile right into our cars and head on over. They’re that good.

Considering the clear Pennsylvania Dutch influence of apple dumplings, it’s hard not to wonder about the true origins of roly polys in my family. Were they really passed down from my great-grandmother? Having Nana’s handwritten recipe makes them a real heirloom. And the fact that they call for hot water pastry—made with Spry shortening, no less (the company is long defunct)—is a testament to the age of this recipe!

This recipe was excerpted from ‘Homage’ by Chris Scott. Buy the full book on Amazon.

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