Khao Niao

Delightfully soft yet chewy, warm sticky rice—a staple of northern Thailand and Laos—is a must-have accompaniment to cookbook author Leela Punyaratabandhu’s Grilled Pork Shoulder Steaks With Green Pepper Relish. For the best results, try to seek out rice that’s been imported from Thailand, as there are many varieties of East Asian short-grain rice that are often labeled “sticky rice” but will not cook to the right consistency in this preparation. Traditionally, khao niao is soaked and drained then steamed in a cone-shaped bamboo basket set atop a metal pot of boiling water, but the saucepan and a heatproof fine-mesh sieve with pan hooks combo here works exceptionally well. When ready to serve, keep the rice in a lidded communal container (even at the table) to prevent it from drying out, and always serve it warm. The best utensil for sticky rice is your hand! Pull off a bite’s worth of rice and knead it lightly with the tips of your fingers before eating, the way it’s done in Thailand and Laos. Do your best to let the rice get soaked in saucy or brothy food, as the moisture will break apart the stickiness that holds the grains together.