Pork Dinakdakan

A cousin of the more well-travelled pork sisig, dinakdakan (also called warek warek) comes from the Ilocos region of Northern Philippines. Traditionally, it’s made with “maskara” or pork face—ears, cheeks, tongue—that’s grilled, sliced thin, and mixed with chiles, onions, and calamansi juice. For Sheldon Simeon, chef of Tiffany’s and Tin Roof in Maui, the dish is a go-to pulutan (bar snack) and a proud vestige of his Pinoy heritage. He trades the pig head for readily available pork belly, which, when grilled, offers the perfect balance of juicy fat and crispy meat.

Classic dinakdakan recipes use pig brains as a creamy dressing for the grilled pork. Many cooks today, including Simeon, substitute mayonnaise, though he has chosen to leave it out here. If you’re curious, add about 2 Tbsp. mayo along with the ginger, fish sauce, and tangy dressing.

A two-step cooking method—first in a vinegary, soy-heavy braise, then on the grill—renders the pork meltingly tender from edge to edge. A hefty amount of barely cooked shishito peppers adds extra crunch and offers a nice contrast to the rich, fatty pork. If you have some green onions, a generous shower on top would be quite welcome. Serve this Ilocano dish as an appetizer with ice-cold beers or turn it into a main dish by spooning over rice.