Rustic Leek and Potato Soup With Fried Herb Gremolata

I started making this soup after learning the hard way that puréeing potatoes with a blender yields a gummy texture. Instead of fussily using a food mill, I asked myself, Why am I making a pureéd soup in the first place? Instead, I slice the potatoes, so that they turn tender and creamy. 

The fried herb gremolata is a simple lesson that adds a crispy, bright punch. You’ll have more than you need, which is okay because it’s good in sour cream to make a ranch-style dip, tossed with roasted root vegetables, or on braised chicken, seared salmon, fried eggs, popcorn—almost anything, really. Store in an airtight container lined with paper towels with the lid left slightly open (airflow will help it stay crisp). Gently reheating the gremolata on the stovetop can help it recover some crispiness too. 

If you have a deep-fry, candy, or probe thermometer, this is the time to break it out—frying the herbs at just the right temp ensures crispiness without burning (or smoking oil). Look for small to medium leeks and use potatoes like fingerlings or small Yukon Golds—you want them to fit in your soup spoon when sliced into rounds. When it comes to vegetable stock, I prefer homemade or store-bought from a market that has earned my trust. If neither is an option, Better Than Bouillon paste is a good option. —Christian David Reynoso