Name: Baked Clams Perce
Cook time: 50 min
Total time: 50 min
Yield: Makes 6 hors d'oeuvres servings
Ingredients: 24 littleneck clams (2 inches wide), scrubbed; 1 cup packaged dry poultry stuffing, larger pieces crushed; 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; 3 bacon slices, each cut crosswise into 8 pieces; Worcestershire sauce; Accompaniment: lemon wedges

Active time: 50 min Start to finish: 50 min

Goodale's, on Second Avenue in New York City, became a favorite watering hole of Gourmet's staff after the magazine moved into its new headquarters at 777 Third Avenue in 1965. Goodale's owner, Perce, was renowned for wearing Bermuda shorts all year round. He also gave his name to this popular appetizer. Baked clams were a favorite first course in the '60s, but were often disappointing mushy mounds with nary a minced clam to be found. Goodale's version, which features whole clams and uses packaged stuffing, is the best and most straightforward we've tasted.

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