Braised Veal Shanks

Name: Braised Veal Shanks
Yield: serves 6
Ingredients: 6 veal shanks (ossobuco), cut 3 inches thick, about 1 pound each; 2 bay leaves; 4 whole cloves; 1 sprig fresh rosemary; 10 juniper berries; 1 orange; 1 lemon; 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt, or to taste; 1 cup or so all-purpose flour for dredging the meat; 1/2 cup vegetable oil; 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; 2 cups finely chopped onions; 1/2 cup peeled and shredded carrot; 1/2 cup finely chopped trimmed celery; 2 teaspoons tomato paste; 1 cup crushed canned Italian San Marzano plum tomatoes; 2 cups white wine; About 8 cups hot poultry, meat, or vegetable stock; Freshly ground black pepper; 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley; 2 plump garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped; Zest of 1 lemon, in fine shreds or chopped; Cotton kitchen twine; a small piece of cheesecloth; a heavy 7-quart saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, preferably about 12-inch diameter (just wide enough to hold all the shank pieces without excess space around them)

December 9, 2011

I can understand why my chefs were focused on ossobuco alla Milanese when we visited Milano in 2008, and why so many readers, viewers, and customers at my restaurants tell me it is one of their favorite dishes—in any cuisine. It is, to me, a perfect symphony of flavors and textures and colors: the luscious veal shank meat falling off the marrow bones, the marrow seeping into saffron-infused risotto, the dense sauce moistening meat and grain. And all the richness is enhanced by the counterpoint of a vibrant gremolata topping of fresh garlic, lemon, and parsley. Fortunately, a trip to Milan is not necessary to enjoy this grand meal. With this recipe (and the one for the risotto, page 48), the multitude of pleasures in preparing, serving, and eating an authentic ossobuco alla Milanese will be yours at home. The most work may be finding a butcher who can supply the “tall” ossobuco I recommend: ask to have the shanks cut so each ossobuco is nearly 3 inches high (when standing on end). If necessary, you can use the flatter-and-wider-cut ossobuco you usually see in the market. Be aware, though, that the meat will cook more quickly and you will need to reduce the sauce ingredients so the ossobuco does not drown in the braising liquid.

Recipe notes