Burgundian Honey Spice Bread

Name: Burgundian Honey Spice Bread
Yield: makes two 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaves
Ingredients: 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the loaf pans; 1 1/4 cups milk; 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar; 1 1/2 cups honey (preferably tupelo, orange blossom, or sweet clover); 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed; 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon; 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves; 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger; 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt; 2 tablespoons very finely chopped candied ginger; 1 large egg, at room temperature; 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature; 2 teaspoons baking soda

December 9, 2011

The wealthy and powerful Dukes of Burgundy controlled the spice trade in the Middle Ages. The windows of the shops and bakeries of Dijon are filed with tightly wrapped loaves of pain d’épice, the traditional honey spice bread of the region. It’s similar to American-style gingerbread only in that they both contain a variety of spices. The texture of the French bread, however, is denser, as it is traditionally baked at a low temperature for several hours, and the spice combination is slightly different. I’ve adapted this version to cook in less time at a higher temperature. The texture is not as traditional, but the flavor is still incredible. Ground fennel seed is not widely available; to order it, see Sources (page 301), or simply grind your own in a spice grinder. While at La Varenne, we served this bread for breakfast for special guests. It’s also wonderful with a hot cup of tea on a chilly fall afternoon.

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