Name: Cheddar and Herb Gougères
Cook time: 45 minutes
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Yield: Makes about 60
Ingredients: ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter; ¾ cup whole milk; 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt; 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour; 5 large eggs; 1 large egg, separated; 3 scallions, thinly sliced; 8 oz. sharp yellow cheddar, grated, divided; 2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill; 1 Tbsp. whole grain mustard; ¼ tsp. freshly ground pepper

A person selecting a gougere from a platter.

Photo by Joseph De Leo, Food Styling by Rebecca Jurkevich

Pâte à choux is a cornerstone of French pastry and one of the French “mother doughs” used to make a wide range of pastries, including gougères, éclairs, and profiteroles. It can be boiled, baked, and fried, so if you like it, be sure to explore the many variations and applications of this versatile dough. Gougères are delightfully airy cheese puffs that are often served warm as an appetizer. I like to find the most shockingly orange and deliciously sharp cheddar to use here. The best part about gougères is that the dough freezes incredibly well, so you can have these at the ready to bake off for a tasty happy hour snack whenever you want. They pair especially well with a sparkling rosé or pét-nat.

Resist the urge to open the oven door (seriously) while these bake. These puffs have a delicate bake that revolves around the steam you trap while making the stovetop paste that then is released during baking, giving these their signature rise and airy center. Open the oven door or rotate your baking sheets too early and you’ll risk having sunken choux.