Cooks' Note
*Known as crème de marrons; available at some supermarkets and specialty foods stores.
**To prepare fresh chestnuts, start with heavy, glossy nuts with firm, smooth shells. Cut a small cross on one side of each shell to let steam escape as the nuts roast and to make them easier to peel afterward. Place chestnuts in a shallow roasting pan; sprinkle with water. Roast in 400°F oven for 25 to 20 minutes. Wrap hot chestnuts in towl and squeeze to crush the shells. Keep nuts wrapped for 5 minutes before removing the hard outer shell and the brown skin inside, being wary of burning your fingers. One pound of fresh chestnuts equals about two cups when shelled.
