Cinnamon Buns and Sticky Buns

Name: Cinnamon Buns and Sticky Buns
Yield: makes 8 to 12 large or 12 to 16 smaller cinnamon or sticky buns
Ingredients: 6 1/2 tablespoons (3.25 ounces) granulated sugar; 1 teaspoon (.25 ounce) salt; 5 1/2 tablespoons (2.75 ounces) shortening or unsalted butter or margarine, at room temperature; 1 large (1.65 ounces) egg, slightly beaten; 1 teaspoon (.17 ounce) lemon extract or 1 teaspoon (.1 ounce) grated zest of 1 lemon; 3 1/2 cups (16 ounces) unbleached bread or all-purpose flour; 2 teaspoons (.22 ounce) instant yeast; 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 cups (9 to 10 ounces) whole milk or buttermilk, at room temperature or 3 tablespoons (1 ounce) powdered milk (DMS) and 1 cup (8 ounces) water; 1/2 cup (4 ounces) cinnamon sugar (6 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar plus 1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon); White Fondant Glaze for Cinnamon Buns or Caramel Glaze for Sticky Buns (page 146); Walnuts, pecans, or other nuts (for sticky buns); Raisins or other dried fruit, such as dried cranberries or dried cherries (for sticky buns)

January 26, 2012

My students often ask me to teach them how to make a cinnamon bun as good as the ones they get at the mall from Cinnabon and other franchise shops. For my money, this version makes a cinnamon bun that outperforms all the malls. But those of us who grew up in eastern Pennsylvania have a soft spot in our hearts for sticky buns, such as the ones originating from the Pennsylvania Dutch countryside. Frankly, everyone in the United States seems to have a favorite regional version, whether it is a cinnamon bun glazed with a sweet, white-sugar fondant or a sticky bun with a caramel glaze. Regardless of side issues, such as white versus caramel glazes, the type of nut (usually walnuts versus pecans), or with or without raisins, the real key to this kind of comfort food is a soft, light, tender, slightly sweet dough baked just right. This formula falls in the enriched, not the rich, dough category because the fat content is slightly under 20 percent. I’ve made versions of sweet dough that do indeed contain up to 50 percent fat, but then why eat the buns? You might as well strap them right onto your hips, since that’s where they will end up (or, as one of my customers used to say, “They call them sticky buns because they stick to your buns!”). Between the shortening, eggs, sugar, and milk, there are plenty of enrichments to tenderize this dough without additional fat. However, if you do want to make a more decadent version of cinnamon or sticky buns, try the formula for Middle-Class Brioche on page 127.

Recipe notes