Most people assume that pho is a beefy affair, but a chicken version has been around since the late 1930s. It’s actually easier to make than beef pho: there are fewer ingredients involved and less finesse required for superlative results. Given that, chicken pho is great for learning traditional techniques, such as charring aromatics and hacking bones. Some cooks flavor chicken pho the same way as beef pho, but I prefer to imbue the broth with coriander seeds and cilantro to create the tonic-like qualities of my mom’s pho and what I’ve sampled in Hanoi.
Use good-quality chicken. I favor air chilled and occasionally buy a bird with everything intact (omit the head if it seems creepy). When chicken backs aren’t available, use other inexpensive parts, such as drumsticks. Freeze the backs and other parts when prepping chicken to make this delectable pot of Vietnamese chicken noodle soup. When buying the rock sugar at the Asian market, look for fresh pho noodles for an extra treat.
A fancied-up bowl of chicken pho may contain trứng non, which are mild-tasting, immature chicken eggs that are considered very special. There’s no need to chase down such a rarity. Simply add half a boiled egg to each bowl.
If you have a lemon or lime tree, pluck 2 or 3 tender leaves. Cut them into the finest, threadlike pieces (omit the spines) and add a pinch along with the cilantro. The leaf is an extra traditional touch.
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