_(Hiyashi Udon)
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Andoh's book_ An American Taste of Japan. Andoh also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.
·For this recipe, it's important to make the stock from scratch. Avoid the powdered and liquid "instant" stock products and noodle dipping sauces found in Asian grocery stores. They are typically filled with chemical additives that are of questionable health and nutritional value, and they taste dreadful. Homemade dashi takes little time and effort, and you will be well rewarded in flavor.
· Shoyu (soy sauce) is used in two varieties in the Japanese kitchen: koikuchi, the all-purpose "dark" variety (sold as "regular soy sauce" in the U.S.); and usukuchi, a saltier, lighter-colored but full-strength version (sold as "light soy sauce" in the U.S.). For this recipe, I recommend the deeper, burnished color of the "regular" type. For the best flavor, avoid using soy sauce labeled "lite" or "low-sodium."
· Dried fish flakes (katsuobushi) are generally a combination of tunalike bonito (katsuo) and other less expensive fish such as sardines and mackerel. Bonito yields a mild but smoky flavor; sardine and mackerel lend a more assertive flavor. In this recipe, the decision on how much katsuobushi to add depends on your preference for smokiness; the more flakes you use, the smokier the dish will be. Once opened, the flakes go rancid rather quickly, so if you will be using them only occasionally, look for a "fresh pack" (several small, sealed packets, each containing 3 or 5 grams) rather than a single larger bag (usually 100 grams).
·There are two varieties of sesame seeds regularly used in Japanese cooking: white (shiro goma) and black (kuro goma). Both are harvested from sesame plants — a single plant will produce either white or black seeds. Toasting sesame seeds brings out their wonderful, nutty flavor and aroma. However, in so doing, the seeds' oils are brought to the surface, where they can oxidize, and go stale. I recommend that you buy un-toasted arai goma (literally "washed" sesame) and toast the seeds yourself, just before using them. If already-toasted seeds (iri goma) are all you can find, use them within a few weeks of opening the package.
·To toast the seeds, warm a small heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add seeds and toast, stirring occasionally with a wooden spatula or gently rotating skillet in a circular motion to keep seeds moving. In about a minute, seeds will begin to color and a few may pop. Continue to stir for another 20 to 30 seconds, then remove skillet from stove. Seeds will continue to toast in the very hot skillet, deepening in color and becoming quite aromatic even after being taken away from the source of heat. If seeds look in danger of scorching, transfer them to a dish to cool before using. • For a variation on this salad, heap a mound of spicy-sharp freshly grated daikon radish on top of each portion of noodles before drizzling on the sauce.
·For a variation on this salad, heap a mound of spicy-sharp freshly grated daikon radish on top of each portion of noodles before drizzling on the sauce.
·Yet another version of this dish transforms cold udon noodles into something resembling a chef's salad. Top the noodles with finely julienned strips of cucumber, briefly blanched and shelled shrimp or boiled crabmeat (cartilage removed), and trimmed radish sprouts.
