Photo by Johnny Autry
Eastern Kentucky–born and –raised chef Colin Perry plies his art now in Montreal at Dinette Triple Crown. The food there taps into traditions of both the far north and the high country South, as in this delectably oh-so-sticky pudding. “I tend to use a lot of maple syrup in my cooking up here, because it’s so delicious and so accessible. But sometimes the taste of sorghum is the only taste that will do,” he says. Really fresh leaf lard has become more available in recent years from artisan butchers and specialty stores. If you can’t get real lard, then use butter. Shortening and grocery-store lard aren’t worth it.
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