Cotton Pork

In the Viet kitchen, preserved dried meats include not only Chinese sausages and jerky, but also these fine, salty pork shreds, named for their resemblance to cotton fibers. Mixed into a bowl of hot rice (add a pat of butter for richness) or creamy rice soup (page 67), the chewy shreds add savory depth to otherwise plain foods. They also turn up tucked into baguette sandwiches (page 34) or sprinkled atop rice crepe rolls (page 270). You may buy thit ruoc bong in tubs at Viet delis and Chinese markets (called pork sung or pork fu in Chinese), but I prefer to make my own. That way, there is no MSG and I know that quality ingredients were used. Eaten a little at a time, a batch lasts months. Use boneless pork loin that has been trimmed of any pearlescent silver skin and fat; Chinese markets often sell such well-trimmed cuts. Or, you can purchase a boneless center-cut pork loin roast, cut and trim the center portion, and reserve the balance for another use.