Country Pâté

Name: Country Pâté
Yield: Serves 6 to 12
Ingredients: 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil; 3 medium shallots, peeled and minced; 8 ounces skinless fatback, cut into small dice, chilled; 6 ounces chicken livers (about 6), chilled; 5 ounces boneless pork loin, cut into small dice, chilled; 5 ounces boneless veal shoulder or neck, cut into small dice, chilled; 3 ounces best-quality cooked ham, cut into small dice, chilled; 1 ounce fatback, skin removed, cut into 1/3-inch dice; 2 ounces chicken liver (about 2), cut into 1/3-inch dice; 2 ounces boneless veal neck or shoulder, cut into 1/4-inch dice; 2 ounces boneless pork loin, cut into 1/4-inch dice; 2 ounces best-quality ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice; 10 grinds fresh black pepper; Pinch of allspice; Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg; 1 large egg; 1 tablespoon cognac; 1 tablespoon port wine; 1/4 cup golden raisins; 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons shelled, unsalted pistachios; Coarse salt; 2 dried bay leaves; 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds thinly sliced bacon or fatback

January 26, 2012

Making homemade pâté, of course, is all about grinding. Here again, you can always buy a ready-made pâté from a specialty store, but making your own allows you total command of the quality of the ingredients and the freshness of the finished product. This recipe is for a country-style pâté, which means that it’s more rustic in texture and appearance than a smoother, mousse-like pâté. Country-style pâté usually includes chicken liver as well as pork and veal. The mixture is ground coarsely, and small cubes of meat, bits of fruit, and nuts—called garnishes—are folded in before the whole thing is packed into a terrine and baked. Maintaining the desired texture depends on making sure that all the ingredients—as well as the grinding equipment itself—are well chilled before you grind. Place everything in the freezer (the grinder for a half hour, the meat for fifteen minutes or so), so it’s very cold, then grind the meats according to their fat content, starting with the fattiest, as these are most likely to lose their structure and become pasty if ground when warm. After baking the terrine in a water bath (bain marie), the final, vital step is weighting the pâté to compress it, eliminating excess moisture and fat and giving it a sliceable texture. Once the terrine is compressed and well chilled, unmold it, then slice with a serrated knife, which will cut cleanly without marring the shape. Serve with its classic accompaniments: good bread, a flavorful grainy mustard, and cornichons.

Recipe notes