Name: Crab Bisque
Cook time: 45 min
Total time: 2 3/4 hr
Yield: Makes 8 (first course) servings
Ingredients: 12 live or frozen uncooked blue crabs (3 to 3 1/2 pound), rinsed well; 2 tablespoons unsalted butter; 2 tablespoons vegetable oil; 1 medium onion, finely chopped; 1 medium carrot, finely chopped; 1 celery rib, finely chopped; 2 large garlic cloves, crushed; 1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf; 4 large thyme sprigs; 1 whole clove; 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns; 1/2 cup Cognac or other brandy; 1 cup dry white wine; 1 3/4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth; 6 cups water; 1/3 cup long-grain white rice; 1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon; 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice; Large pinch of cayenne; 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, at room temperature 30 minutes, picked over; Equipment: an 8- to 10-qt pot with tight-fitting lid; a meat pounder or a rolling pin without handles; Accompaniment: crab butter (optional)

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Crab BisqueRoland Bello

When was the last time you had a traditional, everything-from-scratch bisque? The rarity of an execution this loving, along with those succulent lumps of meat, guarantees groans of pleasure at the Christmas table. The intensely crabby finishing touch, with its base akin to drawn butter, will delight veteran crustacean eaters.

Cooks' note:

Bisque, without tarragon, lemon juice, final seasoning, crabmeat, and crab butter, can be made 2 days ahead and chilled, uncovered, until cool, then covered. Thin slightly with water if necessary while reheating, then proceed with recipe.

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