Cream Scones With Grilled Nectarine and Goat Cheese Sabayon

When I worked for Allie Levitt, one of the most under-lauded pastry chefs in Chicago, she made a strawberry shortcake with whipped goat cheese mascarpone filling. It opened my eyes to how goat cheese can easily swing sweet with the right fruit. I also once did an event with her chef-turned-butcher husband, Rob. The oven at the space was broken, so we hacked the grill to function as an oven. We got it to 350°F and then placed the baking sheet (with the biscuits on it) inside a tall aluminum foil pouch and baked over indirect heat (fire only lit on one side of the grill and biscuits on the other). I don’t know why you would do this if your oven works, but some prefer to do everything on the grill so have at. I learned a lot from Allie and Rob over the years and thank them for their years of inspiration and friendship.

This recipe was excerpted from ‘Pulp’ by Abra Berens—one of the best cookbooks of 2023. Buy the full book on Amazon.