Dobos Torta

The Dobos torta is among the most famous, most impressive cakes from the Austro-­Hungarian Empire. It’s still a staple of many cafés, particularly in Budapest. There’s a lot of controversy about the number of layers in a traditional Dobos torta. Some people say five, some say seven, some people say even more, but I like the way seven looks, so that’s what I recommend.

The cake is tender but has a slightly sandy, chewy texture that sets it apart from a traditional sponge cake. The buttercream is intensely chocolaty, with a touch of caramel that foreshadows the extravagant traditional caramel top. The addition of salt, though not traditional, was requested by the cake, and I always listen to my food (if not my husband). The decorative top layer can be challenging and a little bit stressful because the window of opportunity to be able to cut the caramel-­covered pieces is very brief. But it’s worth the effort, sweat, and yelling: The caramel “fan” crowning the cake is one of the things that makes a Dobos torta a Dobos torta.

Be sure to make plenty of space on your counters to put all the layers while they wait their turns in the oven; there are eight of them (seven layers for the torte and an eighth that gets coated in caramel for a decorative topper), and the batter needs to be divvied up and spread as soon as the egg whites are folded in. You might have a tiny kitchen, but use your imagination (and don’t forget to bake the one you put on top of the refrigerator!). You can make and frost the cake a day or two before you plan to serve it, but don’t add the caramel-­coated garnish until shortly before you serve it; it would get tacky in the refrigerator.