Just saying the words "Dungeness crab" creates a sense of place. Its juiciness and depth of flavor is the secret to this salad because it strikes a perfect balance with the sweet-tart dressing. Don't substitute Atlantic blue crab here; its delicacy won't work to the salad's advantage.
Cooks' note:
The egg yolk in the dressing is not cooked, which may be of concern if salmonella is a problem in your area.