Syrniki (Сырники / Farmer’s Cheese Pancakes)

In the wide world of pancakes—a world I enter into whenever I can—these classic Russian syrniki rank at the top. It’s not just their tangy-sweet flavor that keeps me coming back. It’s also their emotional resonance. In Soviet times, syrniki were a mainstay of my diet, offering a quick hit of protein and an always-reliable meal. Over the years, I tasted my way through hundreds of pancakes. This recipe makes them the way I like them—tender rather than firm, and not too sweet.  

Since the batter doesn’t contain much flour, its consistency will depend on the type of farmer’s cheese you use. I tend to like a slightly sticky batter to ensure that the pancakes turn out moist, so if the farmer’s cheese seems dry, I often add a tablespoon or two of heavy cream to the batter. Even when the batter’s sticky, you shouldn’t have trouble shaping the pancakes if you flour your hands well and use a light touch. Make sure to cook the syrniki as soon as you make them, while the batter is still cold. Otherwise they might lose their shape. You can also shape the patties ahead of time, dust them with flour, and keep them chilled until you’re ready to fry them. A 12-inch skillet accommodates about half the batter. If you want to make all the pancakes at once, use two skillets, adding enough butter and oil for both.