Frijoles de la Olla

Name: Frijoles de la Olla
Yield: Makes 3 to 4 cups cooked beans and at least 4 cups broth; serves 6 to 10, depending on use
Ingredients: 1 pound dried beans (2 2/3 cups large beans or 3 cups small beans); 1/4 white onion; 1 head garlic, outer papery skin removed and halved crosswise; 1 tablespoon freshly rendered pork lard or canola or safflower oil; 3 sprigs fresh epazote, or 6 sprigs fresh cilantro (epazote is the herb of choice for black beans); 1 teaspoon sea salt; Salsa Negra con Chipotles (optional)

By Marilyn Tausend and Ricardo Muñoz Zurita

October 10, 2012

Brothy Beans

"Sólo la olla sabe de sus frijoles" states the wooden sign hung on the wall of a fonda in Veracruz. "It is only the pot that knows its own beans." In homes and small fondas throughout Mexico, beans simmer in large ollas, bulbous-shaped clay pots, their earthy aroma filling the air. Traditionally, a smaller olla filled with water placed on top of the pot serves as both a lid and a way to heat the water that occasionally needs to be added to the beans. Fuel is often scarce and this is a practical way to conserve precious wood.

These brothy beans, cooked with lots of water and just a scattering of herbs, onion, and garlic, are the classic bean dish of Mexico. They are often served as soupy frijoles caldos, ladled into small bowls, the beans submerged in their broth, and offered toward the end of a meal so no one leaves the table hungry. Or, they are served as frijoles cocidos, the beans drained slightly to accompany grilled meats or tacos.

No matter whether the beans are cooked in an olla, Dutch oven, or other heavy pot, the procedure will be the same. All that needs to be adjusted is the length of the cooking time. The fresher the beans are, the less cooking time is needed, but 2 1/2 to 3 hours is a reasonable estimate, although 4 hours or more is not unusual.

Recipe notes