Grilled Bluefish Wrapped in Pancetta with Yellow Tomato Sauce and Aïoli

Name: Grilled Bluefish Wrapped in Pancetta with Yellow Tomato Sauce and Aïoli
Ingredients: 6 bluefish fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each, without skin; 1 lemon, zested; 1 tablespoon thyme leaves; 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley; 6 slices pancetta, 1/8-inch thick; 3 heirloom tomatoes, mixed colors if possible; Scant teaspoon fleur de sel; 2 tablespoons super-good extra-virgin olive oil; 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar; 2 tablespoons finely diced shallot; 2 tablespoons sliced opal basil; 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil for brushing the fish; Yellow tomato sauce (recipe follows); 1 recipe aïoli (see page 148); Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper; 2 pounds ripe yellow tomatoes; 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 1 cup diced onion; 4 sprigs basil; Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

January 24, 2012

I first discovered bluefish when I was working at Angels, a restaurant in Providence. I was fresh off the boat from California when Jamie, the chef, and Eileen, his sous-chef, began introducing me to all the local food specialties. First they took me to a salumeria on Federal Hill, the Italian district of Providence, where the prosciutto was called “prah-jhute” and ricotta was “rha-got.” Then one day they brought in smoked bluefish. We piled it high on crusty Italian rolls, and topped it with sliced red onions, lemon, and way too much crème fraîche. I was in Rhode Island heaven. In honor of that beguiling and unforgettable fish, here I wrap fresh bluefish in pancetta to give the fish a salty, smoked flavor. Served with a yellow tomato sauce, juicy slices of heirloom tomatoes, and garlicky aïoli, this is my tribute to summer in Rhode Island.

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