Chefs will tell you that sometimes inspiration comes from the exalted—but just as often by chance. "I was shopping for porcini mushrooms at a restaurant-supply store and saw a bag of king oyster mushrooms sitting next to a package of some amazing pistachios," says Chang, though this sophisticated dish would never give away its accidental origins.
·If using crosnes, halve lengthwise.
·Pickled Jerusalem artichokes keep, covered and chilled, 2 weeks.
·Puréed and whole cooked pistachios can be prepared 2 days ahead, then chilled separately, covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.
·Radishes can be prepared 4 hours ahead and kept at room temperature.
·Mushrooms can be sautéed 2 hours ahead and chilled, uncovered, until cool, then covered. Reheat in skillet, then proceed with recipe.
