The truth is, there’s a time and a place for whole-wheat pasta. Its nutty, earthy flavor isn’t the best match with a light tomato sauce, but it works quite well with bolder ingredients like capers and anchovies, which can stand up to the pasta’s wholesomeness. Hearty vegetables pair well, too. Here, broccoli is cooked down and transformed into an extra-chunky, extra savory sauce. For even more texture, grated cheese is swapped for toasted bread crumbs. In Italy, they’re known as pan grattato, or “grated bread,” as peasants once used them as a cheese replacement on their pasta because they couldn’t afford the real deal. Nowadays both are easily within reach, but the crunch they add here makes it easy to leave the Parmesan behind. You can also make this pasta with cauliflower instead of broccoli. It will be a bit less colorful but equally as flavorful and feel-good.
To make Freezer Bread Crumbs, cut a (1-pound, or 454 g) loaf of country, Italian, or sourdough bread loaf of bread in half and cut off the crust. Tear half the loaf into roughly 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks and place them in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until coarse bread crumbs form, about 40 pulses. Transfer the crumbs to a large rimmed sheet pan and spread into an even layer. Freeze until firm, about 10 minutes. Transfer the crumbs to a large zip-top freezer bag, seal, and place in the freezer. Repeat with the remaining half loaf and add those crumbs to the freezer bag. Bread crumbs will keep fresh in the freezer for up to 6 months. Pull out what you need and let defrost a little on the counter for a few minutes before using (no need to thaw completely).
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