Pain à l’Ancienne Rustic Bread
I first introduced the concept of cold-fermented wet dough in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. While the idea isn’t new or original, it has blossomed during the past few years into various no-knead, overnight-rise permutations. I now prefer the version in this recipe because it gives the best flavor and also provides the most flexibility for scheduling. The refrigerator provides a 4-day window of baking opportunity, and that’s hard to beat. The beauty of this dough, as others have discovered, is that it can be used in so many ways: for focaccia, ciabatta, mini baguettes, and more. (Because the method for shaping this dough into focaccia is substantially different, it appears as a separate recipe on page 57.) And even though it’s the most hydrated dough in this book, it requires only minimal mixing to achieve the same gluten strength as bakeries obtain by mixing continuously for 20 minutes, due to the stretch and fold technique.
To stretch and fold the dough on the work surface, lightly oil the surface and your hands, then transfer the dough to the surface. Stretch one end of the dough out then fold it back over the top of the dough. Do this from all four sides then place the dough back in the bowl and let sit for 10 minutes. Repeat this process three more times. You will feel the dough become significantly firmer.
