
If I entered a competitive-eating contest, it'd be one for pancakes. I like mine crispy edged, yet soft and tender inside. After years of tinkering, I've found that the best way to get this texture is to start with a fresh pancake batter, but you don't even have to make it yourself. (I love the buttermilk-based Robby's pancake mix available at RobbysPancakeMix.com or Amazon.) If you can, let the batter sit overnight in the refrigerator to hydrate and swell—that extra time makes for the fluffiest pancakes, I promise you. I love the play of the sweet maple syrup with the creamy, slightly bitter nature of the coffee butter in this recipe.
Maple syrup is sweet and delicious, but I give it more textural interest by using Versawhip, a soy protein. It's one of the cooler so-called "molecular" ingredients that chefs play with; it's probably no coincidence it's also one of the most forgiving and easy to use. It aerates maple syrup until it's the consistency of whipped cream, without using any cream. Versawhip is available from the manufacturer Will Powder (WillPowder.net); the online gourmet retailer L'Epicerie (Lepicerie.com); and Amazon.
To make whipped maple syrup, put 1 cup of pure maple syrup and 2 teaspoons Versawhip in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Mix on low speed until dissolved, then increase the speed to medium-high and whip until the syrup holds soft peaks. The whipped syrup can be held at room temperature for up to 1 hour.


