Name: Rainbow Trout with Apple Pearls, Lemongrass Gremolata Crumbs, and Mosel Riesling Butter Sauce
Yield: Makes 4 servings
Ingredients: 4 stalks fresh lemongrass; 3/4 cup grapeseed oil or canola oil; 1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley; 1 teaspoon finely rasped (see cooks' note, below) or 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest (from 1 lime); 1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs); 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt; 2 tart firm-fleshed apples such as Pink Pearl, Pink Lady, or Gala; 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice; 1 teaspoon grapeseed oil or canola oil; 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot (1 large); 3 whole black peppercorns; 3 whole pink peppercorns; 1 bay leaf (not California); 1 1/3 cups Mosel Riesling (Kabinett quality); 2 tablespoons heavy cream; 1 1/4 sticks (10 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes; 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste; 1/8 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste; 4 (12-oz) rainbow trout, cleaned, boned, and head removed, leaving rest of fish whole; a 1/4-inch melon-ball cutter (optional) and 2 (12-inch) nonstick skillets

Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 2 hr

Traditionally sprinkled over veal, a classic Italian gremolata is made of lemon zest, parsley, and garlic. Chef Odessa Piper's take on it trades lemon and garlic for lemongrass and lime zest, giving the topping a lighter, more citrusy flavor that perfectly complements the mild trout.

Cooks' notes:

° Any leftover lemongrass oil keeps, covered and chilled, 1 week. ° Chef Odessa Piper uses a rasp to finely grate lime zest. The rasp, available at kitchenware stores, makes very fluffy zest and is the best tool for grating zest without incorporating any white pith. ° Pink peppercorns may be hard to find. You can order them from Penzeys Spices (800-741-7787), but most jars of mixed peppercorns include them.

Recipe notes

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