Risotto alla Milanese

Name: Risotto alla Milanese
Yield: makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients: 4 to 6 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock, preferably homemade (page 160 or 162); Large pinch of saffron threads; 4 to 6 tablespoons (1/2 to 3/4 stick) butter; 1 medium onion, minced; 1/4 cup diced bone marrow or prosciutto, optional; 1 1/2 cups Arborio or other short- or medium-grain rice; Salt and black pepper to taste; 1/2 cup dry white wine; 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, or more to taste

December 14, 2011

In all but the best restaurants, risotto is abused—cooked in advance, baked, and who knows what else—so if you have never made risotto at home, you are in for a treat. It takes a little patience and a little practice, but it is not a difficult process at all. True risotto alla Milanese contains—indeed, features—bone marrow, but don’t be discouraged if you cannot (or will not) deal with that. Risotto is wonderful without it, and prosciutto makes an adequate substitute. What you do need are Arborio rice (now sold everywhere, but still best purchased in Italian markets), real saffron, and, ideally, good, homemade stock. (Having said that, see my “bare-bones” variation.) I might add this: After years of trying every possible technique to make my risotto as creamy as the best I’d ever had, I realized that the “secret” was large quantities of butter. Don’t hold back unless you must.

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