_(Iriko Dashi)
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Andoh's book_ Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen. _Andoh also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.
This recipe originally accompanied Thick White Noodles in Soup, Topped with Eggs and Scallions and Cold Noodle Salad with Ponzu Sauce._
In the Sanuki region of Shikoku Island, noodle soup stock is typically made from dried sardines called iriko, in combination with dried kelp (kombu), and dried black mushrooms (hoshi shiitake). Some Sanuki stocks are enriched with bonito flakes (katsuobushi) and if you prefer a smoky flavor to your broth, I suggest you add these flakes, too. All the dried foodstuffs used to make stocks are rich in naturally occurring glutamates and provide intense flavor to the soup.
·Iriko (dried sardines), also called niboshi, are available in most Asian markets. To maximize their flavor-enhancing ability and keep potential bitterness to a minimum, trim them by removing the gills and contents of the belly cavity. Because the fish are dried, this is not a messy procedure: First, snap off and discard the heads. Then, pinch each fish at midpoint along its abdomen to split open the belly cavity. With your fingertips, pull away and discard the crumbly, blackened material in the belly. ·For making stock, look for the reasonably-priced, all-purpose kombu labeled "dashi kombu," or "Hidaka." ·Fresh shiitake and dried (hoshi) shiitake mushrooms are not interchangeable. Dried mushrooms are especially rich in minerals such as potassium, and contribute an intense flavor to stocks and stews. For making stocks, the flatter, less costly varieties of hoshi shiitake (either whole caps, broken pieces, or presliced bits) will be fine. ·To further release the full flavor of the dried sardines, kelp, and dried mushrooms, soak them for at least 10 or 15 minutes (and up to several hours) in the pot of cold water before cooking. ·Dried fish flakes (katsuobushi) generally combine shavings of tunalike bonito (katsuo) with other less expensive fish such as sardines and mackerel. Bonito yields a mild but smoky flavor; if your preference runs toward smokiness, look for a higher percentage of bonito, usually accompanied by a higher price. Sardine and mackerel lend a more assertive flavor. Once opened, the flakes go rancid rather quickly, so if you will be using them only occasionally, look for a "fresh pack" (several small, sealed packets, each containing 3 or 5 grams) rather than a single larger bag (usually 100 grams). ·All the dried pantry items in this recipe can be ordered online at www.maruwa.com or www.katagiri.com.
