
The basic ratios of my cheesecake are in line with a recipe published in New York City over a hundred years ago, but with a portion of the cream cheese replaced by goat cheese. That combination mimics the texture of old-fashioned cream cheese—tangy, fresh, and a little crumbly too. It makes for a cheesecake that tastes perfectly authentic, but without the gumminess that can plague some recipes. Thanks to an initial burst of high heat, it puffs gently in the oven, creating a uniquely light but creamy consistency.
Baking at high heat does more than brown the top—it causes the cheesecake to soufflé ever so slightly, creating a more delicate texture inside. If you’d prefer the cheesecake pale and dense, bake it at 250°F for about 75 minutes; use the same temperature to check for doneness.
Many ovens don’t run true to temperature. Given the extremes involved, play it safe and keep a close eye on your cheesecake as it browns.

