Southern Minestrone

Name: Southern Minestrone
Yield: serves 4 to 6
Ingredients: 1 tablespoon olive oil; 2 onions, preferably Vidalia, chopped; 1 carrot, chopped; 1 stalk celery, chopped; 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped; 6 cups water, plus more if needed; 1/4 medium head green cabbage, chopped; Rind from a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper; 1 (14 1/2-ounce) can crushed tomatoes; 1/4 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces; 1/4 pound fresh okra, stems trimmed, halved lengthwise; 1 yellow squash, chopped; 1 zucchini, chopped; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil; 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes; 1/2 cup elbow macaroni; Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling; Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish

December 9, 2011

Like many recipes of humble country origins, there is no carved-in-stone recipe for minestrone, the iconic Italian vegetable soup. Mamas from both sides of the Atlantic have used fresh seasonal vegetables with a bit of hambone or cheese rind to prepare soulful, satisfying soups. We’ve long known that this combination tastes good. Now we have a name for why it does: umami. The Japanese term umami is now familiar to culinary professionals, chefs, and informed foodies, yet Asian cooks have appreciated the taste for centuries. It is the fifth taste after sour, salty, bitter, and sweet. Scientifically, umami is the distinctive flavor of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. Think about classic Caesar salad dressing, a combination of egg protein and salted anchovies. Or old-fashioned greens simmered with ham. Or this soup, in which the rind of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese complements the vegetables in the tomato broth.

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