Food editor Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez's southern Italian grandmother makes this dish every September. The eggplants get a workout, but the result is worth the effort.
Cooks' notes:
•Stainless steel, glass, and enameled cast iron are nonreactive; avoid pure aluminum and uncoated iron, which can impart an unpleasant taste and color to recipes with acidic ingredients.
•Stuffed eggplants can be made 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat in a 350°F oven, covered with foil, thinning sauce with a little water if necessary.