Tongue with Capers and Cornichons

Because the Jews were a source of income to the Popes of Avignon until the Revolution, they were squeezed whenever money was needed. A story goes that in Carpentras, the home of the largest number of Jews in the thirteenth century, a 1276 agreement forced the Jews to deliver to the bishop’s table a prized delicacy, the tender tongue of all the animals that they slaughtered in the kosher manner. The Jewish tradition of smoking or pickling tongue is a perfect example of my definition of a culinary lag—using pickled tongue even when refrigeration makes it no longer necessary, and at a time when we focus on eating fresh foods without preservatives. But because these are traditional family recipes, people are hesitant to tamper with them. After tasting fresh tongue at Le Mas Tourteron (see page 92) just outside Gordes, I have always opted for fresh, because of its amazing flavor and texture. Including garlic and saffron adds a North African touch to this dish, which is often served at weddings and Bar Mitzvahs in North Africa.