Wampanoaug Clam Fritters

Soft-shell clams, also called steamers because they are usually cooked that way, are somewhat difficult to obtain if you don’t live in an area where the mollusks are abundant. They are worth the search in the same way that soft-shell crabs are; they are delicate in texture and briny in flavor. Be sure to pull off the tough outer coating of the siphon, which is a prominent feature of these clams.

Steamers are also known as Ipswich or Essex clams or, somewhat ironically, fryers, because that’s the other way they are most often enjoyed.

If you cannot find steamers, substitute hard-shell littleneck clams or even canned whole clams. The steamers are seasonal, showing up in the Northeast between May and October. Here, the clams’ natural briny sweetness serves as a surprising foil for the tender fritter batter.