Wedding Soup

Name: Wedding Soup
Yield: makes about 5 quarts
Ingredients: 1 medium onion, cut in chunks; 2 medium stalks celery with leaves, cut in chunks; 1 small carrot, cut in chunks; 4 plump garlic cloves, peeled; 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves; 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil; 7 quarts cold water; 1 head escarole (about 1 pound), cut in 1/2-inch shreds; 1 bunch Swiss chard (about 1 pound), cut in 1/2-inch shreds; 1 large fennel bulb (about 1 pound), trimmed and sliced 1/4 inch thick; 1 pound zucchini, cut in 1/2-inch pieces (about 3 small zucchini); 2 tablespoons kosher salt; 4 ounces stale country bread, crusts removed (about 3 or 4 slices); 1/2 cup milk, or more as needed; 1 pound sweet Italian sausage (without fennel seeds); 1 large egg, beaten; 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt; Freshly ground black pepper to taste; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley; Freshly grated pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for passing; Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality; 1/2 pound provola, cut in 1/4-inch cubes (optional); A food processor; a heavy-bottomed soup-or stockpot, 8-quart capacity or larger, with a cover; a 4-quart saucepan for blanching the meatballs

December 9, 2011

In the dialect of the Lucani (as natives of Basilicata are known) maritare means “to wed,” and I have always thought that this wonderful soup was so named because it was customarily served at wedding celebrations. Recently, however, while doing some research, I came upon another explanation of why it is called maritata—because it weds vegetables (in the soup base) with meat (in the polpette), and with this added protein it becomes a complete and balanced one-course meal. I like both interpretations of the name and believe they’re compatible. Certainly a young couple, on the brink of their first night as newlyweds, can use this fortifying nourishment! There are many ways to prepare and serve a soup with multiple elements like this one, and you can of course play around with the recipe here. One variation is to fry the meatballs rather than poaching them. Though it takes a bit more work, it does give another layer of flavor (see my recipe for Meatballs in Broth in the Umbria chapter, page 196, for instructions on frying little meatballs for soup). Another option is to add cubes of provola to the soup just before serving. If you can get a good-quality Italian provola (mild provolone), this embellishment is superb. I’ve included instructions for this step at the end of the main recipe.

Recipe notes