Broil

Anthony Bourdain I will always associate the smell of this dish with my first imaginings of France — and with the imminent arrival of guests. When I smelled this dish cooking downstairs, I knew company was coming. My mother made it for special occasions only. I remember being terrifically impressed that she served it in scallop shells. I yearned for this dish — knowing it only by smells — and was delighted when I finally turned old enough to sit down to eat with the adults. This was the reward.

Charring the tomatillos, chiles, and garlic under the broiler before puréeing them concentrates their flavor and sweetness and gives the finished salsa a smoky essence.

Active time: 50 min Start to finish: 50 min Goodale's, on Second Avenue in New York City, became a favorite watering hole of Gourmet's staff after the magazine moved into its new headquarters at 777 Third Avenue in 1965. Goodale's owner, Perce, was renowned for wearing Bermuda shorts all year round. He also gave his name to this popular appetizer. Baked clams were a favorite first course in the '60s, but were often disappointing mushy mounds with nary a minced clam to be found. Goodale's version, which features whole clams and uses packaged stuffing, is the best and most straightforward we've tasted.

The shrimp could also be skewered and grilled instead of broiled. Either way, they're lovely arranged atop pimiento-flecked rice pilaf and served with steamed snow peas and a basket of warm corn muffins. Blueberry or strawberry shortcakes are the perfect dessert.

Jamie serves the Stir-fried Sesame Asparagus with the steak since they complement each other so well. Look for rice vinegar in the Asian foods section of the supermarket.

Active time: 35 min Start to finish: 40 min

Using the freshest eggs possible is the key to great poached eggs. This dish makes a savory breakfast or, when paired with a salad, a satisfying brunch.

In this colorful salsa, fennel, olives and rosemary combine with roasted bell peppers.

Elegant dessert cups from Senses Bakery in Washington, D.C.

This light and spicy sauce is especially good on chicken. For convenience, you can mix the spices ahead, then add the vinegar just before using.

Although having your guests shell their own shrimp can be a messy proposition, the result of grilling shrimp in the shell-unbelievable succulence-is worth it!

Cunetto House of Pasta in St. Louis has an excellent grilled skewered chicken entrée. Sometimes I even make a special trip just to have it. Could you request the recipe? Georgeann King Memphis, Tennessee

Serve the fish with steamed rice and braised bok choy or Napa cabbage for an elegant and easy Asian-inspired dinner. Begin marinating the fish at least three hours before you plan to cook it.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This entrée from Anzu restaurant in Dallas partners Japanese miso and sake with Italian balsamic vinegar and olive oil.