Deep Fry

These bean fritters appear in several West African countries; they are called akara in Nigeria and Sierra Leone and akla or koosé in Ghana. Although eaten as a snack or side dish, bean fritters are also consumed as breakfast food with hot sauce as an accompaniment (it's more like a thick relish than a sauce). We think the fritters are great as an hors d'oeuvre. Although we use vegetable oil for frying in our recipe, red palm oil is the preferred frying medium in Africa. And traditionally the black-eyed peas are skinned, but we think you get more bean flavor if you leave the skins on (and save a lot of time as well).

These little quesadillas are made with masa rather than packaged tortillas.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

To ensure a perfect blend of spices, chef Jason Girard makes his own Cajun seasoning, sold under the brand name BlueChef. We tested a variety of Cajun spice blends for this recipe and liked the McCormick and Spice Hunter brands for their balance of flavor. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 30 min

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min For those who don't like their oysters raw, there's the classic po'-boy sandwich. New Orleans's first po'-boy makers settled on a roll that is light and mild, so that it doesn't overpower the tender oysters inside, yet is substantial enough to keep its shape when the sweet juices are released from their cornmeal crust. We discovered that a soft-crusted French, Italian, Portuguese, or Cuban loaf works well. Hot pepper sauce is the traditional condiment, but we've improvised a little, using chipotle mayonnaise to add a layer of smokiness instead of pure heat.

(Three Generations of Squash) Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

Alexis Walker of Corvallis, Oregon, writes: "After many attempts to get a reservation, we finally succeeded in dining at Genoa restaurant in Portland. It was definitely worth the wait. The fried mozzarella was a revelation. Would you ask the chef for the recipe?"

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 45 min

These hors d'oeuvres should be served warm, so fry a couple of batches at a time as platters need replenishing.

If you make these as a side dish for the southern fried catfish, you can fry them in the same oil, but cook the hush puppies first because the fish will flavor the oil.

These delicate, crisp capers make a flavorful garnish. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr