Beverages

The Mojito was born at the La Bodeguita del Medio in Havana, Cuba, in the 1940s. Legend has it that Ernest Hemingway wrote “My Mojito in La Bodeguita,” which still can be read today, hanging on the wall. Others claim that this was a forgery, a marketing ploy of the restaurant owners to promote their mojito cocktail and bring in tourists after communism took over. Over the last decade, the Mojito has quietly become one of the most recognized drinks in the world. Today, people carelessly consume it regardless of the season or weather. But somewhere along the way, the mojito has been reconfigured as a short, stout, bittersweet rum hybrid of muddled lime wedges and pulverized mint. Then a friend of ours who went to film school in Cuba came back and pointed out that mojitos were supposed to be tall, light, and fizzy, clean and effervescent. We brought it back to its true form and labeled it the Havana-Style Mojito. Although it never made it onto our menu, it is the closest you can get to a true mojito without the luxury of Havana Club Cuban rum. It is a fantastic cocktail—but please don’t order it while there is snow on the ground.

This Mint Julep is the quintessential American cocktail, so regal that it sits at the summit of cocktail Olympus next to classics like the Martini, the Manhattan, and the Sazerac. It hails from Kentucky and Virginia and is enjoyed throughout the South. We know for sure it was consumed as early as 1790, particularly in the summertime. A particular type of spearmint, Kentucky Colonel, is best suited for the preparation of this cocktail, commonly served in a silver or pewter cup to keep it chilled longer. Since 1938, it has been the official drink of the Kentucky Derby, where up to 120,000 mint juleps are served over the period of two days. There are many historical and regional versions: some use bourbon, others brandy; some only tap the mint, others pulverize it into a paste. We favor a bourbon recipe in which fresh spearmint is bruised with a ladle, then sugar, bitters, and bourbon are added; the mixture is chilled overnight so the mint releases all the flavors and essential oils into the whiskey, then strained the following day for final julep preparation. To simplify this process so the julep can be made to order, we use our own homemade Mint Syrup.

The original Gin Julep published in Harry Johnson’s 1882 Bartenders’ Manual was the only other julep that people generally ordered besides the whiskey and brandy versions. It’s likely that the prominent malt flavor of Holland gin, a product we know today as genever, appealed to the whiskey lover. With the rerelease of Bols Genever gin to the U.S. marketplace, we tested this cocktail but were not at first happy with the results. So we cut the amount of genever in half and substituted Plymouth gin for the other half—and then we had one of those great drinks that will stand the test of time. It is unlike most cocktails because it has two base spirits. It is delicate, light yet full-flavored, and very refreshing. It is a cocktail to fall in love with.

The Gin Rickey (see photo) is the most prominent member of the Rickey Cocktail family, which basically calls for a shot of any straight spirit, a splash of freshly squeezed lime juice, and club soda, served tall. The story has it that the founding father of this cocktail trend was a retired Civil War colonel and lobbyist, Joe Rickey. The man loved his bourbon with soda and a squeeze of lime. He refused sugar on the grounds that “drinks with sugar heat the blood,” and as a string-puller in D.C., he clearly didn’t want passion to interfere with clear thinking. We played with this cocktail but shelved it, feeling that although it is a wonderful drink, it was not intriguing enough to put on our menu. Then we made our own lime cordial. The concentrated flavor of the sweetened cordial created the same feel as the original, only with more depth and intensity and more focus on the gin. Also, our lime cordial is sweetened not with sugar but with agave nectar, which has a much lower glycemic index and therefore should not “heat” the blood as much. The good colonel would be pleased.

The Grapefruit Gimlet (see photo) came as an inspiration upon tasting Charbay ruby red grapefruit vodka. Unlike other flavored vodkas, this producer actually uses real fruit in a natural process of infusion. Charbay pays Texas ruby red grapefruit growers premium prices to leave the fruit on the tree until they are overripe. Then they are shipped to California, where father-and-son distillers Miles and Marko Karakasevic grind the whole fruits—skins, pulp, and juice—then let them sit in alcohol for six months to extract the real fruit flavor. This essence is then strained and added to clear vodka. The result of this infusion is unlike any other flavored vodka. The beauty of our Grapefruit Gimlet is that it consists of only three ingredients: Charbay grapefruit vodka, fresh lime juice, and agave nectar. This recipe is very simple to make and really accentuates the grapefruit vodka. Make it and taste it and you’ll feel like you’ve just bitten into a sweet, ripe ruby red grapefruit through the skin. It’s refreshing and full flavored, and it begs for another sip.

The story of the Roselle highlights the creative process at Employees Only. After seeking a hibiscus cordial, bar manager Robert Krueger infused the dried blossoms into syrup for a delicious result. The citrus and floral elements immediately suggested a pairing with gin, and the botanicals in Tanqueray No. 10 specifically led to grapefruit. A quick shake revealed that the red of the hibiscus turns an iridescent rose when mixed—inspiring the drink’s name. The resulting drink is a reminder that a confident bartender should never be afraid of mixing a pink drink—or of drinking one, for that matter.

The name “French 75” refers to the most deadly and accurate artillery piece of World War I: the 75-mm field gun. Some credit WWI French-American flying ace Raoul Lufbery as the creator, who poured a little cognac into his beloved champagne for added kick. Other recipes list gin as the main ingredient in what is basically a Tom Collins with champagne instead of club soda. This recipe is first seen in The Savoy Cocktail Book; author Harry Craddock notes that it “hits with remarkable precision.” Across the pond, the French 75 was made popular at New York’s infamous Stork Club, which opened during Prohibition and survived into the 1960s. Looking back at the historical cocktail record, it seems most likely that this cocktail began as the gin version, then makers shifted to cognac in order to make the drink a bit more French.

The Millionaire Cocktail is not as romanticized as the South Side or as revered as a Whiskey Sour. Little is known about this Prohibition-era cocktail except that it was a popular name for cocktails of that time. We have found five different cocktails carrying the moniker, with recipes varying from whiskey to rum to gin. Even Harry Craddock, author of The Savoy Cocktail Book, listed two completely unrelated recipes as Millionaire Cocktail No. 1 and Millionaire Cocktail No. 2. The first consists of Jamaican rum, apricot brandy, sloe gin, lime juice, and grenadine; the second has anisette, egg white, gin, and absinthe. We have provided the Millionaire recipe from The How and When cocktail book by Hyman Gale and Gerald F. Marco, first printed in 1938. Although it inspired the name for our Billionaire Cocktail (page 64), we have made some slight adjustments to the proportions and added lemon juice for balance.

The Fraise Sauvage was inspired by the famous pre-Prohibition classic, the French 75 (page 70). The name itself is a play on words in French, meaning “wild strawberry.” This cocktail uses our EO homemade Wild Strawberry Cordial to create a cocktail in the classic style. We shake together Plymouth gin with fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and strawberry cordial, then top it off with demi-sec champagne. For our first summer menu at Employees Only, we wanted to put on the list a cocktail that would be a crowd-pleaser. Fraise Sauvage is the EO equivalent of the ubiquitous Caprese salad. The flavors of gin, strawberry, and champagne are a timeless combination and showcase how simple flavors can become complex when combined. To make this cocktail without the strawberry cordial, simply muddle a whole fresh strawberry, then follow the rest of the directions.

By the time Sex in the City featured Carrie and the Cosmo, we were already killing this contemporary cocktail during our tenure at Pravda in the late 1990s. Our recipe stood out in the world of popular downtown nightlife destinations as the hallmark of what a Cosmopolitan should be; light pink and citrusy, with ice shards and foam surrounding a flamed orange peel. Although it speaks to trendy fashionistas, when made properly the Cosmopolitan can be a tasty libation. Clubs and marketing agencies later bastardized this drink with Rose’s lime juice, cheap triple sec, and enough cranberry juice to cure a bladder infection.

This cocktail was created in a flash of inspiration to showcase overproof whiskey by offsetting it with wonderfully lush and flavorful ingredients. Strong Baker’s 107-proof bourbon serves as the backbone to the cocktail, providing vigor and heat. This is balanced with our rich homemade grenadine and fresh lemon juice to give a delightful sweet-and-sour balance. The Absinthe Bitters’ anise essence rounds out the cocktail, giving it a classic feel and third dimension. After conceiving the recipe, we were stumped for a name until we realized it was quite similar to a version of the Prohibition classic Millionaire Cocktail (page 66). Because of inflation and the fact that ours is a “richer” cocktail, we named it the Billionaire Cocktail.

The return of the Aviation cocktail signaled the rebirth of the classic cocktail. Using ingredients that were obscure a mere ten years ago, this drink is simple and snappy and speaks of the era surrounding Prohibition. The original Aviation cocktail was created in the early years of the twentieth century by one of us—a New York bartender, Hugo Ensslin, who was the head bartender at the Wallick Hotel. Probably his intention was to celebrate the Wright Brothers and other achievements in flight made at that time. Ensslin also published the recipe in his book, Recipes for Mixed Drinks, which appeared in 1916 and in which he called for dry gin, lemon juice, maraschino, and crème de violette. We must assume that the crème de violette Ensslin had at his disposal is different than the ones we have today, as the drink does not turn sky-blue. Harry Craddock left out the crème de violette in The Savoy Cocktail Book and so did many others. Only recently have we begun to see the emergence of really high-quality crème de violette on the market—but it still remains to be seen if it will catch on beyond cocktail geekery. We add a touch of aromatic bitters at the end to dazzle your nose and create depth.

We use the Amelia to transition the Cosmo drinkers into our dangerous world of subtle flavors. We chose vodka as the base spirit to showcase St-Germain without muddying its flavor. The Amelia is named in honor of an older Greek woman who gave Jason food and lodging when he ran out of money while traveling through Greece.

The original Champagne cocktail recipe illustrates the simplest incarnation of the cocktail in general: spirits or wines mixed with sugar, bitters, and water. Over the years, some recipes for the Champagne Cocktail called for the addition of brandy or cognac for a stronger kick and bigger body. But no matter what goes into it, the drink has always been the choice of prominent and well-heeled U.S. citizens because champagne commands a lofty price and is a status symbol in America. We at Employees Only choose to make this cocktail with Curaçao, specifically Grand Marnier. We find that it adds more flavor notes and blends more effortlessly than does cognac. It’s a misconception that one must use the finest Champagne in this cocktail. Please do not destroy a masterful tête de cuvee with bitters and sugar. Use a well-rounded nonvintage brut, which has the bones for such a cocktail.

This cocktail is an Employees Only variation on the Champagne Cocktail (page 56). In champagne production, when the pinot noir skins are left to touch the juice, they add color and a soft touch of tannins. The result is some of the best aperitif wine available: rosé champagne. Other sparkling wine producers emulate this with rosé varietals, most notably the Spanish with Cava. These wines are truly magnificent, and their affordability makes them very suitable for mixed drinks. Cava rosé has a body and level of dryness ideal for adding sugar, bitters, and Campari to create a sultry variation on the classic Champagne Cocktail. This cocktail is very sexy and inviting and makes a superb aperitif, as well as a great choice for pairing with antipasti, mezes, tapas, or seafood appetizers.

The original recipe for the Vesper was created not by a bartender but by popular spy novelist Ian Fleming. In Fleming’s 1953 book Casino Royale, Agent 007 instructs the bartender to prepare him a Martini with “Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice cold, then add a large, thin slice of lemon.” Bond named this drink after Vesper Lynd, his first love interest in the series. Kina Lillet vermouth, with its flavor notes of quinine, no longer exists, so we replaced it with Lillet Blanc and a dash of Angostura bitters. We opted for a blend of Charbay clear vodka and Plymouth Navy Strength gin to finish off our interpretation. This is the cocktail that introduced the phrase “shaken, not stirred,” which changed Martini drinking forever. Thank you, Mr. Bond.

The majesty of cocktails, the Martini is the most iconic mixed drink in the world. The name itself conjures up an image of the V-shaped cocktail glass with an olive resting in its depth. There is much debate about the origin of this drink. What is not in question is that this cocktail has evolved over time. Its simplicity is an illusion: the dry Martini takes years to master. The clear stillness and serenity of the final drink is an expression of the years of skill and experience of the person stirring it, and the proper execution of this cocktail is an exercise in honing the craft of cocktail making.

The Sazerac was invented by pharmacist Antoine Amedee Peychaud in New Orleans sometime in the early 1800s. In his French Quarter drugstore, M. Peychaud served his concoction of Sazerac cognac, absinthe, sugar, and his homemade bitters in the large end of an egg cup—what the French call a coquetier. (There had been speculation that the word cocktail comes from the mispronunciation of coquetier, but this myth has been disproven.) Later, rye whiskey replaced Sazerac cognac because it was more readily available, but the name stayed. The traditional making of a Sazerac is a ritual still practiced in New Orleans. It begins with the bartender pouring Herbsaint into a rocks glass, then tossing the glass in the air while yelling “Sazerac!” Coating the inside of a glass with liquor is referred to as “seasoning” the glass. The glass is then chilled as the cocktail is made. At Employees Only, we make Sazeracs by seasoning the glass with our Absinthe Bitters, and we use Angostura bitters in addition to Peychaud’s.

The Provençal is Employees Only’s most romantic original aperitif and a seductive start to an intimate dinner. Mouthwatering, sexy, and savory, it was created as a pairing for raw oysters to heighten the sensual experience. After years of watching certain cocktails being erroneously labeled “Martinis,” we felt the need to get back to the roots of the Martini and create a gin and vermouth concoction. We use lavender-infused Plymouth gin and French dry vermouth scented with herbes de Provence and blend them with Cointreau to give the Provençal its unique appearance and flavor. We hoped it would rival the standard dry Martini as the predinner cocktail, and it exceeded all expectations. The Provençal is a tribute to the golden age of cocktails when bartenders made many of their own ingredients in-house—it is the archetypical EO aperitif. Both the gin and vermouth infusions are easy to make, and the results are truly extraordinary.

The Americano is the quintessential Italian aperitivo. When it was first created at Gaspare Campari’s bar in Milan in the 1860s, it was named Milano-Torino for its two main ingredients: Campari from Milan and Cinzano from Turin. The drink quickly became popular as an afternoon quencher at outdoor caffès in the Italian piazzas. The name changed during Prohibition due to the mass of thirsty American tourists who fell in love with it. Some fifty years later, this drink would inspire one of the most fantastic aperitifs ever: the Negroni (page 42). It is little noted that the Americano is the first cocktail that James Bond orders in Ian Fleming’s first novel Casino Royale, long before he orders a Martini.